Men suits and tailoring

To all Americans

2012-01-24T13:33:00.005+07:00

Scary Scary Scary

The martial law will take over soon.

That concern all Americans.

Are you prepared to survive.

Chaos

2012-01-24T11:16:00.000+07:00

The government try to sell thing belonging to Thailand to the public.That make another boiling story for thai people.The Premier Minister is the sister of Taksin and as long this family still involve in Thai policy Thailand will go down. They just try to sell Thailand to anyone whom will give them enough money. In Thailand they have use to sell their own children to the prostitution ring for a small amount of 150.- $.They also kill there father for 100.- baht to go drinking. That what the land of smile has come.
But still a beautiful place with nice beaches and hills.
One family as spoil all the job that the King made for the last 60 years. This Shinawatra (Taksin) family as kill Thailand with is money, paying the poor to get them on is side. He knew that those poor people would be happy if he was giving them some money and that they would do everything he would ask like burning down Bangkok twice, putting bomb in Bangkok etc......This guy (Taksin) is mad and should be in an psychiatric hospital.
Thailand will never get better as long this family name still alive.
When he escape Thailand to not go to jail, he say if he cannot stay in Thailand, Thailand cannot be as well.
That what her sister is trying to do now. Someone as to kill them to save Thailand but no one as the ball.

Restart to write news about Thailand

2011-12-26T16:43:00.000+07:00

The sister of Taksin is the Prime Minister of Thailand that a good reason to start the blog again.
From the first day she come in Thailand has a worst flood in history and still flood after 3 months. they are 20700 rai of land under 1 meter of water and the government is doing nothing. ( 1 rai is equal at 1600 square meter).
Tomorrow i will be here with more story about this family of gangster.

Bangkok news Latest update

2010-03-19T16:01:00.003+07:00

Mr. Hun Sen and his wife, but it look like Taksin Shinawatra has taken over the spirit of Mr. Hun Sen.
Read the story below.

In Thailand they have a lot of black magic like in Africa or under developed country.
The ex prime minister of Thailand Mr. Taksin Shinawatra use to do those kind of ceremony as well the prime minister of Cambodia Mr. Hun Sen.
Taksin has been kick out of Thailand and has been welcome by the prime minister of Cambodia
and has been give the post of business adviser to the prime minister.
On the picture it look like Mr. Taksin Shinawatra has taken over the spirit of Mr. Hun Sen and maybe his wife as well.
Last week the red shirts spill blood in front of the government house asking the devils to help them, some of the people whom were at the ceremony were member of the government. What a shame to see PM at the ceremony, but it doesn't surprise me when you know that they are from the opposition and they are all corrupted Taksin side.
That the real problem of the new prime minister Mr Abhisit. He is fighting the corruption and Taksin side try to kick him out.
It look like the Italian mafia.

Latest new

2009-07-04T11:33:00.002+07:00

What happens in Thailand.Everyday look like a Sunday morning in Switzerland.Very quiet at the

moment.I thing that all over the world.

The Thai Prime Minister is in trouble because the coalition does not support him.He borrow 400

billions baht to the international community and I don't know if it is good.It will be good if we had

a population of at least 200 billions peoples but with 65 millions peoples the debt is heavy.

IF someone know the name and the nationality on which Mr. Taksin Shinawatra is moving

around the world, please tell me I would be very happy.

Economy and tailoring are f....k d'up in Thailand for the present.

Hope,hope,hope,???????????????

Wish you all, the best and a fast recovery,the world is sick.

.

Asean Summit updated

2009-05-15T13:48:00.003+07:00

The Asean Summit has been move from June to October in Phuket.We have to wait another 5 months.
Everyone is a little disappointed because the economy is bad and they were expecting that the Asean Summit would bring some business in.
The reason is that not all heads of Asia will be free to meet together before October.Some have just been elected and they have to form there government coalition first.

Thaksin is resident of Montenegro now, he bought an island there.Montenegro are asking to be a member of the E.U. but they give government passport to a man whom has to go to jail in Thailand and has been kick out of England.(England is Europe sa well).
Montenegro is another mafia government.People are forgetting a word call "ethics"and some even doesn't no that word exist.Money is GOD.GOD bless you.
Willy

Thailand

2009-05-05T21:24:00.002+07:00

The present prime minister, Abhisit his the best we had for the last 30 years but he has a big problem with Taksin. The ex Prime Minister, Taksin still alive and want to come back to Thailand as a free man. He, few weeks ago ask his supporters to go on rampage in Bangkok and they burn 100 of city buses, shooting at the military and bringing gaz truck in the city to blow them up. The military clear the city in less than 3 days without a death person. That was the first time in history that it was nobody death. (I was there).
Thaksin say that he is going with a guerrilla underground now on. Hope that nobody will follow up and I thing that Thai people are again violence. Maybe you will get a handful of peoples whom will take on arms but I thing that will be clear soon.
They already know whom was behind the assassination attempt of Sonti Limtongkhun, the opposition leader and PAD head. We will get the names in a week or two.
Thailand still a nice place for holiday.

Emergency state

2009-04-12T17:28:00.002+07:00

That it's.Emergency state in Bangkok and around.
The Prime Minister take action this morning and that good but maybe too late.He has to be strong now and order to shoot to disperse the protesters.
They (red shirts,Taksin supporters) already try to kill him (The Prime Minister) once this midday but he escape.
Now let see if the police and military will follow the orders of the Prime Minister.The police and the military have been paid by Taksin.
I thing that he should ask for a U.N. force to come take care of Thailand until the head of the red shirts are behind bar.
It look like Thailand will look soon like Africa.
Willy

Bangkok red shirts

2009-04-12T00:25:00.006+07:00

From yesterday 10/04/09 we had another Asian Summit in Pattaya whom went wrong.
The red shirts went manifest there as well (Taksin side).Newin Chibchob whom his now behind the democratic party recrute 500 peoples (dark blue shirts) for security there.(The police and the army were there already).
Everything went wrong when the red shirts clash with the dark blue shirts (Newin Chibchob men).Some bullets flew and an handgrenade went off. 10 peoples were send to the hospital.( 5 from each side)One his serieusly injured.
After that the red shirts get upset and went to the Summit room for revenge.All the minister had to be taken to the nearest airport to be flown home for security reason.
Thailand has lost is face.
The red shirts had manifest for the last few days at the government house in Bangkok demanding the resignation of the Prime Minister and 2 others adviser of the king.
Taksin try to come back to Thailand by any mean.He is ready to kill 30 milions peoples for that.We can say that he is Pol Pot 2.He spend thousand of millions for that.He has is own T.V. Channel (D.TV or communly know as Dog TV)and he talk to his supporter every day.(uneducate people from the North and east)
The Prime minister has 2 days to disperse the protesters in Bangkok or it will be a riot all over Thailand.
Wait and see what will happens next week.
willy

Letter to a friend

2009-04-03T12:47:00.003+07:00

Dear Guenter

How are you?
We are expecting on the 08/04/09 a big protest in Bangkok from the opposition or red shirt in front of the government house.They are already there for the last 7 days but they try to get 1 million peoples for the 08.(they are dreaming.They may get the army there)
The yellow shirt are gone but the red shirt are in (Taksin fan, mafia).One day they will meet and it will be a clash.That day will be a slaughtering and I thing that day will be the end of Thailand.I have a feeling that to get out of this mess is to let Thailand and Thai peoples to go to the bottom and to start new with less peoples but educated and the most important MORAL, ETHICS.
The end of holiday in Thailand is soon.(That government is to soft,like katoey government and the other one was a mafia.They need a very strong government now whom will be not afraid to kill few peoples to get Thailand on track again but that a dream)
Sincerely your

Willy

fashion new

2009-03-23T19:13:00.002+07:00

For 2009 the fashion is still the 3 buttons jacket with straight pant with no pleat.

That another reason why you need a tailor.The pant with no pleat are uncomfortable for medium to heavy peoples.For heavy you need 2 pleats that give you more space on the tight section and it is more comfortable if you are sat all day.For medium weight peoples you need at least 1 pleat.

For jacket the fashion is on 3 buttons and it is all right for business.For a sport jacket or a casual wear suit a 2 buttons will be more comfortable.In the back of the jacket you have 1 vent or 2 slits.
President Clinton use to wear often a 1 button jacket and that nice as well.
The jacket in any case should be single breasted. Double breasted jacket are out of fashion for years all ready but that another reason to resort to a tailor.

Shirts are stripy with french collar.The checked shirts are still on.

Willy

Mission hospital,5 days in hell with devils.

2009-03-10T23:52:00.004+07:00

My wife was in hospital for the last few days and I could not believe what happens.
Everything start with pains in her stomach.I went to the Mission hospital to check because she has the stomach inflated after few hours.
They ask her to stay for the night and that in the morning they will do some x-ray.
In the morning after the x-ray the doctor (or vet)say that she has kidney stones.
I ask him how the kidney stone can inflated her stomach and could not answer but say that maybe can happens but it never happens before.(she was still in pain and inflated).
The second day another doctor come and put his finger in her ass and say that not kidney stones but infection of the bladder.(This one never show up again).
The third day they start the x-ray again with another doctor again whom say it was an infection of the small intestine.(maybe).They put a tube in her nose to take what was left in her stomach and put her on a regime. No food and no drink for the next 3 days. They put dextrose in her arm, gave her a lot of painkiller and live her like that in the bed with red ants.(Yes it was red ants in her bed and we complain but they did nothing.The red ants bite and it is hitching.)
After 2 others days the doctor came again and say that they will operate her the next day.I ask again the doctor why the belly was still inflated and he couldn't answer again but he say that when they will open her belly they will know what happen.(I was not happy with the answer.If it is a car that O.K. to open the engine to know what happen, but for an human been????).
The next day the anesthesist came and my wife ask for the price of the operation and he say at least 50000.- baht.My wife say that she has only 30000.- baht.The anesthesist when right to
accountant and tell him to come and talk with my wife.The accountant say that the bill was already at 53000.- baht.
My wife say that she has only 30000.- baht ( I was there but I say nothing because I knew it, it was a scam from the mission hospital)
They take all the tube and everything whom was attach to her body out and tell her to wait that they will bring the bill and after that she will be free to go home or another hospital.(she was still inflated like a pregnant women and has some pains.)
They bring the bill, she paid 30000.- baht and say that the rest will be paid later.I bring her home and I went to the chemist to buy some medecine (antibacteria) that she took.The next day she has her stomach back to normal,no more pain.
Be carefull about Thai Doctor they are nuts.I thing a vet in Europe know much more that those Thai Doctor.They try to keep you in hospital to get your money out.They will never try to heal you,never.
That was my story but I have 100 of story like that from friends, customers whom had naughty story in Thai hospital.
TRY TO KEEP AWAY FROM THE THAI HOSPITAL.( all of them )

Asean summit

2009-03-01T00:19:00.002+07:00

Today they start the ASEAN summit in ChaHam-HuaHin.They will be there until 1 of march.
They have in there agenda a very interesting point, they will start to talk about an Asian community like the EU, one passport, one currency and one visa for us.
I thing that it is going to take another 10 years before we can see something happens and maybe nothing going to happen.
They are going to talk about human right????????????corruption????????????.
Well at the moment we have the best prime minister we ever had and everybody is expecting that Thailand will recovered from the Taksin era. We still have a strong opposition with the Taksin follower and a part of the corrupted police.
He may or may not make it. Time will tell.
At the moment the Asian Heads are in HuaHin seaside resort and take holiday, but I hope that they will do more than just holiday.
Is Asia can get together?(good question)

Stand by

2008-12-06T12:43:00.002+07:00

The ex-wife, son and daughters of Taksin are back in Thailand.BAD NEW. She should be put in jail for 3 years but she walk free from the airport.She going to do an appeal but she escape already once and this time she should have been arrest.
I thing that Thailand has gone on the wrong way.I thing as well that we will be like Africa or Iraq soon.(civil war).
For myself and many foreigner living in Thailand we are looking for a brand new country.For myself I may go to Lao or Burma. Even Burma at the moment it's a better deal for foreigner.Let's see if they can control the situation in Thailand first.
I will keep in touch with news about ex-wife of the gangster.

THE final showdown

2008-11-27T19:48:00.003+07:00

I THING that tonight or tomorrow night will be the end of the mafiosi style government. The military may go on the side of the PAD. The police feel like they can remove the protesters (PAD) with force and killing but the army look like they are not going to live the police doing it.
If the airport of Bangkok as been taken over by the PAD it is because they were waiting for the prime minister (Somchai) to come back from the APEC sumit in Peru. Somchai kluey tok when directly to Chiangmai in the north of Thailand because it was more secure for him there. At the moment the Airport still close because they are waiting for Somchai to come back from Chiangmai.
Actually the PAD did not close the Airport, they just were sitting outside but the manager of the airport ( whom is pay by Taksin "mafia") close it to hurt the name of the PAD. The Airport could run if the people in charge would do it.
What the PAD want it is easy, they want the Taksin way of managing Thailand out. They want to secure the life of the King as well cause Taksin has said few time that the King was harming his political goal. "to be higher that the King. I thing he can dream for the rest of his life and his next few lifes". ( get the mafia out has never been an easy task, you can ask the Italiens).
I am hoping for the best for Thailand.

Forget to tell you

2008-11-24T21:27:00.000+07:00

Look at the music player on the right side, very good Strobegirl song.

Hoping the final day of rally

2008-11-24T21:06:00.002+07:00

Today 23/11/08 it was the bigger day at the PAD rally with some 300'000 or more peoples.I thing
if the people of Bangkok (lazy bastard) decide to come out they will get 1'000'000 up.
They say (PAD) that they are not going to go on with the demonstration after the 24/11/08.They lose or they win. My self ,I thing, that would be a mistake to give up now.They spend a lot of money trying to get Thailand on the right way with a democracy and now they will give up. I would like them to remember that it is already 4 deaths few disabled persons and a 500 injuries in the last 6 weeks.
The main problem is Taksin and I don't know why nobody come out and give money to get him out of this world.
If they give up I hope they will stay underground and kill all the PPP or Taksin party.
Hoping for the best but if this government stay in I will look for another country to go.

great moment of pleasure

2008-11-08T20:38:00.002+07:00

The last new about our lovely ex prime minister is that England kick him out. At least, after so long they made the right decision.
What happens we still don't know but on 6 or 7 of november the English government cancel the visa for Taksin and his wife. They advice all the airplane company to refuse Taksin on any flight to England as well.
Taksin visa was B215683 and his wife B206635.
My esteem on England is back now that they made the right decision. I love England because I live in for 3 years but I have to say that I was chock when they accept Taksin as a free man. Now let enjoy a great moment of pleasure.
God know where he will go next but it look like the Phillipine will be his choice until he get kick out again. Out of Thailand, out of England, out of ...........

Bangkok policy

2008-10-07T18:48:00.010+07:00

The police are fighting with the PAD from 6am all ready. They use gas lacrimogen and grenades.
At 7pm it is 170 injured PAD peoples with some whom lost there hand, leg, finger etc. On top of that it is 2 death and the fighting will go up all night. The police use force again peoples unarmed.
Can you send this report to everyone you know and news paper as well. That the result of Taksin whom he's hiding in London.
It will be many others death peoples until the morning, maybe go to 100-200 .Do not forget the disaster that Taksin as made before in Takby (south of Thailand) 100 peoples kill by the police and the other fighting the drug with 2500 peoples kill with at least 2000 innocents.
In the rest of Bangkok it is just business as usual.
ASTV at www.manager.co.th

Bangkok PAD last news

2008-10-05T19:11:00.002+07:00

Friday at 2 pm the police catch Mr. Chaiwat ( one of the head of PAD ) to make it disappear but it was to many peoples whom have seen it and they have to bring it to the police station.
Today ( sunday ) they arrest the second head of the PAD Mr. Chamlong Srimuang.
They promise to arrest all of the PAD heads ( 5 full time+4 part time ) what create a full chaos and the population are heading to the government house ( at the moment the PAD have taken over the government house and put there office there, outside not inside they didn't not wanted to break the law and they stay outside in the garden ) to support the PAD.Now at 19:30 it is all ready 1/2 a millions peoples and they are expecting 1 - 3 millions peoples the next few days if they don't release the 2 heads of the PAD.It's not valid arrest warrant for them the police just use there power.
The prime minister at the moment is the brother in law of the gangster Taksin Shinawatra ( whom is living in London at the moment. ). This government ( nominne of Taksin ) has to arrest all the menbers of the PAD before the 21 oct. because Taksin has to go to court and it will be given a prison term of 3-4 years at least. If this government can arrest all the menber of the PAD they ( this government ) will pay the court to clear Taksin and he will comeback as a free man.
The population of the north still like Taksin at 70% because is the place where he is from and for other reason like drug dealing. ( do not forget that the wife of Taksin, 5 years ago has been arrest by the police of thonglor on Sukhumvit soi 20 with 3 kg of heroin. They were no following because Taksin was the prime minister at the moment. " corruption" ).
The eastern is split in 2 between Taksin and "no Taksin" He gave government money free of charge to farmer from eastern. ( 50%-50% ).
The rest of Thailand is again and hate Taksin because he corruption and few speech he has again the monachy. His supporter are trying to kill the King, they hace some public speech in support of removing the king. ( what will be a shame when you know that the King has given his entire life to the Thai peoples.)
For me the best will be to kill Taksin and his family to put Thailand in one.( It is 2 Thailand at the moment, the one whom like Taksin and is mafia style politics and the one whom hate Taksin.)
If Taksin come back England will be to blame for it. Helping a drug dealer and dictator like Marcos was is not very a nice gift for the King of Thailand. Queen Elisabeth ll is friend with the King of Thailand but I thing that she has no power.
What scary me is that Taksin has bought the police chiefs and the army generals with a 50'000'000 million ( 1'666'666 us$ )bath each and that what we know but I thing that is other 100 and 100 of millions given away.

New prime minister

2008-09-21T13:58:00.002+07:00

We have in Thailand a new prime minister whom is married with the sister of Taksin Shinawatra the ex gangster prime minister of Thailand.
The opposition and the P.A.D. will not accept him and will follow with the demonstration.
The P.A.D. want the PPP party out of politic.
At the moment the PPP have the majority because the dirty vote buying but 62% of the population already are accepting the idea of the P.A.D. to make a new style of government.
The new prime minister will try to modify the new constitution to have Taksin clear of corruption and back to Thailand. That why the P.A.D. are fighting again the PPP, they don't want the new constitution to be modifyed for the only reason to allowed Taksin to come back to Thailand.
The main problem is that Taksin is one of the richess man in the world and that Thai people with high government position will always accept money. Thai people can kill there father and mother for money. Do not forget that, but they will never make trouble with foreigners and they will never listen to us as well. Let them clean there dirty clothes between them.
Opposition or Democratic party have not enough voices to make a difference and the best for them is to stay quiet and that what they do.
Willy

Bangkok politics

2008-09-12T19:36:00.002+07:00

Bangkok government house demonstration.
A lot of peoples are asking me about the demonstration at the parliament house.
I thing that is nothing to worry about and that just normal for Thailand.In 27 years in Thailand I have been true many coup d'etat and some were scary but this time it is a demonstration and it wont get violent. It may have 2-3 peoples kill but that the rule when you want to change the all political scene.
I thing that for holiday makers it will be safer than before and in any case the demonstration may go like that for a year maybe.
The demonstration has been there for more than 110 days and will last for another few months because they don't want the government out only, they want a new government clear of corruption without the old faces. They want to put Thailand on the right lane and that will take time. This an history period for Thailand and everybody whom will be in Thailand should go to the government house once in there holiday. I have been few time already this time and nearly everyday 2 years ago when they were kicking Taksin out of Thailand.It is a lot of fun with music concert, mimes, Thai dance show, etc..,a good place to get fun and a fashion venue.
This political demonstration should be on all the holiday schedule.THAT A MUST TO SEE AND LIVE.
More foreigner at demonstration site will make the demonstration safer because the government want risk is worldwide political scene. The U.N are looking at it as well and all the embassy in Bangkok.
GET YOUR PLANE TICKET FOR BANGKOK.
Willy

Don't let me down

2008-07-10T16:45:00.002+07:00

Dear Sir
I am a little bit disappointed to see that no one commend on my blog.
I am open to all idea and I would like you to share your commend with me.
A tailor is always a student because it is new fabrics and design coming out everyday.
I would like to thank Mr. Allocca for sending me a catalogue with all stuff you need in tailoring. If someone has advice or website interested in tailoring, please send me.
Wish you all the best.
Willy Lattmann

Photo , sandstorm in Koweit

2008-06-26T20:42:00.000+07:00

Photo , train and snow

2008-06-26T20:18:00.000+07:00

Read Traveling Tips & Information? Click here

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Photo , night life

2008-06-26T20:12:00.001+07:00

Oops sorry....... .Power Failure

Remember the style

2008-06-26T16:28:00.000+07:00

Youth predominated the culture of the 1960's. The post World War II Baby Boom had created 70 million teenagers for the sixties, and these youth swayed the fashion, the fads and the politics of the decade. California surfers took to skateboards as a way to stay fit out of season, and by 1963, the fad had spread across the country. Barbie dolls, introduced by Mattel in 1959, became a huge success in the sixties, so much so that rival toy manufacturer Hasbro came up with G.I. Joe, 12 inches tall and the first action figure for boys. Another doll, the troll or Dammit doll (named for it's creator, Joseph Dam) was a good luck symbol for all ages. Slot cars overtook toy trains in popularity.

In fashion, the 1960's began with crew cuts on men and bouffant hairstyles on women. Men's casual shirts were often plaid and buttoned down the front, while knee-length dresses were required wear for women in most public places. By mid-decade though, miniskirts or hot pants, often worn with go-go boots, were revealing legsl bodywear was revealing curves, and women's hair was either very short or long and lanky. Men's hair became longer and wider along with beards and moustaches. Menswear too had a much needed renaissance; bright colors, double-breasted sports jackets, polyester pants suits with Nehru jackets, and turtlenecks were in vogue.

By 1964 the teenage influence caused the hemlines to creep up, and most teenagers were wearing mid-thigh length shifts as daywear. The sweater-dress was also very popular with young girls from 1961 onwards, until the mid-60s when other innovative designs were introduced. 1965 saw the premiere of culotte dresses in op-art or vibrant coloured patters (think Peter Max or Pucci) and these were most popular as evening or party wear; culottes had the freedom of trousers but the look of a full skirt. 1966’s dress was the tent, or "baby doll dress", sometimes in transparent chiffon, worn over a contrasting slip, and often sewn-in.

1966 was the year of the mini-skirt! Widely acknowledged as the brainchild of designer Mary Quant, within a year anybody who had the body to pull it off was wearing a mini, many of whose hemlines were 4-5 inches above the knee in New York and 7-8 inches above the knee in London! Throughout this time skirts were often paired with a matching sweater and matching set of tights for a uniform look. 1965 and 66 also saw the mini-coat, perfectly straight and virtually shapeless; also the pop-inspired dyed furs and PVC designs. By 1967 capes were popular, and were often made with matching deerstalker hats.

In the fall 1967 collections, the paper dress made its debut. Made of paper blended with nylon or other cellulose material, it was intended for everyday wear but was only ever widely used as holiday or lounge wear, due to its tendency to crease and also its, er, flammability.

In ladies' tops or blouses, from 1960 onwards the turtleneck, or polo neck, sweater was common, especially under a collarless jacket, and in 1966 Aran sweaters, with their thick knit, became trendy. Sleeve length was usually ? length, with long sleeves often pushed partway up the arms for a ? look (think Jackie O style suits and jackets). Sleeveless tops did not become popular until the mid 1960s.

By the end of the decade, men's ties, when worn, were up to 5" wide; most were patterned even when worn with stripes. Women wore peasant skirts or granny dresses and chunky shoes. Unisex dressing was very popular, featuring the bell bottomed jeans, love beads, and embellished t-shirts. Clothing was as likely to be purchased at surplus stores as boutiques. Blacks of both genders wore their hair in an afro; whites of both genders wore their hair either big and frizzy or long and straight.

Men's Clothing

There was a renaissance in the refinement of men’s fashion during the early 1960s as it was influenced by Italian designers. Men’s suits became more tight fitting. Formal leisure suits and single breasted suits with short tailored jackets and narrow lapels worn with narrow collared shirts and thin ties became popular. The mods proved that men could care about the clothes they wore. This attitude allowed changes in men’s fashion as the decade progressed.

Narrow pants were worn by the fashionable young with 'winkle picker' shoes. Longer hair replaced the crew-cut, but it was still slicked back with oil and gel. Facial hair became more respectable and sideburns became popular. Custom made tailoring remained a tradition for men. Chelsea boots became fashionable.

In the late 60's men's dress became more fancy and feminine. Men grew their hair, wore wide polka dotted ties, paisley flouncy shirts in fluorescent colours and bell-bottomed velvet pants. The 'peacock' style of dressing became popular with men. Men dressed up as a form of self-expression or to attract women. Fashion designers strengthened their colours and made tight fitting trousers for men in bright and bold, purple and orange, flower prints on velvet fabric combinations. Jewellery collections were launched for men.

Some part of history

2008-06-26T16:11:00.000+07:00

History of Men's Suit Clothing

Tailoring, cutting and sewing of mens suit as we understand it today, developed slowly in Europe during twelfth and fourteenth centuries. Quality cloth was always important feature of Mens suit. Going through the renaissance the prime function of clothing was to cover up the body shifted to the place whereby clothing was used to emphasize certain physical features.

The tail coat was believed to be apt formal evening wear, escorted by a top hat. Starched white shirts with pleated yokes were predictable with the tail coat, even though bow ties and shirts with white wing collars were as well seen. Mens suit Tuxedos were increasing in fame but were not yet totally acceptable during that time.

Black patent-leather shoes were in style during this period and over and over again appeared with formal evening wear. Casual clothing commanded two-tone shoes in white and tan, or white and black. Fringed tongues on Oxfords and brogues were also often seen. Lace-up way shoes were most occupied. Official suit were little different these days, people stated preferring black and white combination during this period. Huge Tuxedos came in to picture during this time and well accepted by people as a party wear.

As noted the stability of trend power was slowly shifting, following the civil war the English moved away from the pretty court technique well liked in France and took up a more realistic form. Both the clothing of the gentry and also the high trade classes became increasingly more tee-total all through the eighteenth century. By the start of the 1800's kings, consorts, and other princes were dressed up in a self-possessed manner the same to their subjects, this evolved into the classic clothing linked with the nineteenth century for instance stovepipe hats, umbrellas, and frock coats.

Jazz clothing approved swiftly in and out of fashion during the twenties. These tightly-fitting Mens suits were well thought-out an appearance of passion for jazz music. Jackets appeared to be long and tight-waist with extended back vents. The buttons were placed close jointly whether the jackets were double or single breasted. Trousers were tight and stove-pipe skinny.

Johnjustin is a copywriter of www.mensusa.com. He had written various articles in different topics on Mens Dress Suit. Contact him at john.mensusa@gmail.com

Dashing tweed

2008-06-26T15:08:00.000+07:00

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About Us

This year sees the arrival of Dashing Tweeds, Britain’s latest tweed textile company. Opening up a contemporary arena for a classic quality fabric, Dashing Tweeds has created a range of tweed for the 21st entury, designed by photographer Guy Hills and weaver Kirsty McDougall.

The Urban Tweed range is inspired by the colourscape of London, from wet pavements of Piccadilly to the green parks of St. James’. For colour fidelity samples of double yellow-lines and red routes were chiselled up and taken to produce the yarn shades of the city.

The Poaching Tweed range is no less distinctive, dressing up the innovative concept of beautiful tweed for a well-groomed night out. The tweed to play in is the Sporting Tweed range. Appealing to the dandy of either sex, it adds panache to any sporting activity. Capturing the urban zeitgeist of our time in a fabric, select tweeds across each range have been designed as Lumatwill^TM. A unique weave of wool worsted and reflective yarn Lumatwills^TM appear by day only in their smart combination of colours. By night, under illumination, hidden reflective lines shine out, offering at last, an inventive and stylish solution to attire for the pedestrian, cyclist or scooter rider.

To re-fashion tweed for our time, Dashing Tweeds has joined forces with military tailor Kashkets. Their first venture is the Scooter Coat, designed by head cutter Russell Howarth on the cut of a Household Cavalry greatcoat. The Scooter Coat is stylish and warm in the daytime and, at night, reflective and water repellent as well, providing a safe and elegant coat perfectly suited to the requirements of today’s urban environment.

The Scooter Coat is bespoke and costs £850. For men and women the ever-increasing Dashing Tweeds fabric range is available direct from Guy Hills at or 07831 548 068, and from selected tailors around the country.

TAILORING "I found this strange"

2008-06-26T13:37:00.001+07:00

Tailoring allows players to cut and weave various pieces of cloth into armor, bags, shirts, and other cloth items. Tailors can create cloth items for cloth wearing classes: Mages, Warlocks, and Priests. Tailors play an especially important role in guilds because they can create bags for the entire guild. They can also create specialty bags such as Herbalism bags that can increase gathering for the guild. They can learn powerful rare recipes as the highest levels which allow them to create powerful gear useful in raiding. Tailors can create shirts or dress-up items.

Tailors do not require any special equipment to create their items, such as blacksmiths require anvils. Tailors can create items wherever they want, as long as they have the proper required ingredients. Tailoring does not require a gathering profession. Proper ingredients must be gathered from monsters or purchased from other players. If your friends know you're a tailor they also may collect tailoring ingredients for you, provided you let them know exactly what you need.

Looking for Profession Guides?
Click here.

Tailored items require cloth, typically dropped by humanoid monsters. You can ask around to find out what specific monsters drop them or check profession guides.

Cloth Types:

Cloth	Level Monsters	Skill Recipes

Linen	5-17	1-91
Wool	16-27	75-130
Silk	25-40	125-210
Mageweave	40-50	175-250
Runecloth	50+	250-300
Felcloth	53-60¹	250-300
Mooncloth²	-	290-300
Netherweave	54+³	300-375
Imbued Netherweave⁴	-	325
Spellcloth⁵	-	355-375
Shadowcloth⁶	-	355-375
Primal Mooncloth⁷	-	355-375

1 - Demons and Satyrs (Felwood, Azshara, Blasted Lands, Dire Maul)
2 - Mooncloth is created by combining two Felcloth in a Moonwell. Four day cooldown.
3 - Netherweave Cloth only drops in Outland or around Kharazan.
4 - Created by combining 3 Bolts of Netherweave and 2 Arcane Dust. This requires a Mana Loom. Several Mana Looms are located in Lower City in Shattrath.
5 - Created by combining a Bolt of Imbued Netherweave, Primal Mana, and Primal Fire while in Netherstorm. Four day cooldown.
6 - Created by combining a Bolt of Imbued Netherweave, Primal Shadow, and Primal Fire while at the Altar of Shadows in Shadowmoon Valley. Four day cooldown.
7 - Created by combining a Bolt of Imbued Netherweave, Primal Life, and Primal Water while at a Moonwell. Four day cooldown. Creating a Primal Mooncloth gives you a Moonwell Restoration buff that gives 12 health and mana per 5 seconds for one hour.

Other Ingredients
Recipes usually require thread or possibly colored dye which is purchased from trade merchants. You can usually find the trade merchants that have all available ingredients near the trainers. You might also need leather, gems, potions, and other special ingredients created by other Profession craftsmen. Leather is found by Skinners so you will likely have to purchase it from another player or from a friend. Gems are found from monster drops, treasure chests, Mining, Fishing, and Rogue pick pocketing. Potions will need to be purchased or given by an Alchemist.

Recipes
Recipes can be found at trainers, as limited items on special vendors, as rewards for reputations, monster drops, quest rewards, powerful boss drops, and in the auction house. Ask around if you can't find a particular recipe.

Moon Well Locations
Alliance players can find Moon Wells at the Temple of the Moon in Darnassus, Auberdine in Darkshore, the Park in Stormwind, or in Cenarion Hold in Silithus. Horde players have a little more challenging time finding Moon Wells. They can find Moon Wells in Cenarion Hold, in Ashenvale east of Iris Lake, or in Thalanaar in Thousand Needles. In Outland there is a Moonwell at the Cenarion Outpost just outside of Shattrath City. There's also a Moonwell at Cenarion Refuge in Zangarmarsh.

Tailors are the main creators of bags. Players can acquire bags from loot drops, quests, or merchants. However, tailors can provide bags in larger quantities, while also offering cheaper prices than trade merchants. Every class needs and wants bags, so this provides excellent opportunities for tailors and also makes them extremely popular until players have all of their bags. As tailors increase their level, they can more easily find or purchase ingredients for bag making.

Bags	Slots	Skill Required

Linen Bag	6	45
Red Linen Bag	6	70
Woolen Bag	8	80
Green Woolen Bag	8	95
Red Woolen Bag	8	115
Small Silk Pack	10	150
Green Silk Bag	10	175
Black Silk Bag	10	185
Mageweave Bag	12	225
Red Mageweave Bag	12	235
Runecloth Bag	14	260
Mooncloth Bag	16	300
Netherweave Bag	16	315
Bottomless Bag	18	300
Imbued Netherweave Bag	18	340
Primal Mooncloth Bag	20	375

Specialty Bags	Slots	Usage	Skill Required

Enchanted Mageweave Pouch	16	Enchanting	225
Enchanted Runecloth Bag	20	Enchanting	275
Big Bag of Enchantment	24	Enchanting	300
Spellfire Bag	28	Enchanting	375
Soul Pouch	20	Warlock	260
Felcloth Bag	24	Warlock	300
Core Felcloth Bag	28	Warlock	300
Ebon Shadowbag	28	Warlock	375
Cenarion Herb Bag	20	Herbalism	275
Satchel of Cenarius	24	Herbalism	300
Bag of Jewels	24	Jewelcrafting	340

Tailors can also create special outfits such as dresses or formal attire. These can impress other people in town or be used for special occasions. Examples: Wedding Dress, Tux Shirt, Tux Pants, and Tux Jacket. Some players wish to purchase these which can result in steady sales in the auction house or directly to players.

Shirts

At the highest tailoring levels you can choose a tailoring specialization. The three areas of specialization are spellcloth, shadowcloth, and primal mooncloth. The benefit of specializing is that when making the respective cloth, you create two pieces of cloth for the same materials and cooldown - doubling your cloth making output. Each type of cloth has a four day cooldown on creation on their own timer. Therefore, once you specialize you can make two cloths for your specialization and one cloth of the other two choices, all on separate cooldowns.

To specialize, you must have at least 350 skill in tailoring. Head over to Shattrath City, where you'll find four master tailors in the southeast part of Lower City. If you're sufficient level and skill, they'll offer a quest for specialization.

You should review the various specialty patterns you can obtain by specializing before you make your decision. Your class and talent build will likely play a role in your decision. Here are some general guidelines for the items you can make with the three specializations:

Spellfire Tailoring - Arcane/Fire damage items, 28-slot enchanting bag (Fire/Arcane Mage)
Shadowweave Tailoring - Frost/Shadow damage items, 28-slot soul shard bag (Frost Mage/Warlock/Shadow Priest)
Primal Mooncloth Tailoring - Healing, 20-slot bag (Holy Priest)

You can still make some of the above items no matter what specialization you choose, however, it will take twice as long to create an item outside your specialization assuming you create all the required cloth yourself. There *are* certain cloth sets that can only be created by those that have a certain specalization. So make sure you research what set you want before picking your specialization. Trading specialty cloth with tailors of other specialties can be much faster and more efficient. In addition, set bonuses of the crafted items may require you to be of a certain specialization to become active. You can now unspecialize in tailoring and then select a new specialization. This is a repeatable choice, but costs gold each time.

Artisan Tailoring is available at the highest level once you have reached level 35. Horde players should head to Tarren Mill. Alliance players go to Timothy Worthington (Theramore Isle, Dustwallow Marsh).

To advance beyond 300 tailoring, Horde players need to speak to Dalinna (near inn at Thrallmar) in Outland. Alliance players need to go upstairs in the Inn at Honor Hold. Both of these are located in Hellfire Peninsula.

Skinning might go well with tailoring, because you can collect leather for recipes.

Additional Tailoring recipes can be found in encoded messages found on the members of the Twilight's Hammer in Silithus.

There are some tailoring quests such as Shadowweave Mask (NIlith Lokrav in the Searing Gorge) or Meilosh in the Timbermaw Hold, when you have a friendly reputation with the Timbermaw.

Some powerful recipes are bind on pickup and only found from high level enemies.

Many factions have reputation-based recipes available for purchase.

Jacket sewing

2008-06-12T22:06:00.001+07:00

Needles and Thread

I select a thread and needle size compatible with the fabric that I am sewing. To do this, I make test samples and select the combination of thread, needle, and machine tension that best achieves my goals.

Sandra Betzina and Claire Shaeffer have both written wonderful books about choosing the proper needle and thread combination for various types of fabrics, as well as giving information about the fabrics themselves. Sandra Betzina's book is Fabric Savvy, and her second one is More Fabric Savvy. Claire Shaeffer's book is Sew Any Fabric, and her older book on the same subject is Fabric Sewing Guide. Both of the Fabric Savvy books and the Sew Any Fabric are printed in a very user-friendly format, with concise information about many of the newer fabrics as well.

Silk thread: I have a soft spot in my sewing heart for 50 weightmachine-twist silk thread. I buy it from Things Japanese at www.silkthings.com. I previously purchased a color card from that vendor, and use it to order the exact thread color required for my project.

I don?t use silk threads from other vendors unless I am assured that the thread is filament silk thread, as the TIRES brand is. Gutermann, for example, has a silk thread composed of lots of short fibers, called ?spun silk thread? and is definitely inferior in performance to TIRES silk thread. Because it is a little less expensive, I use Gutermann silk thread for basting, but not for assembling my garments.
It?s a delicious pleasure to sew with silk thread, both by hand and by machine. It makes beautiful buttonholes and topstitching. I topstitch with 30 weight thread in the needle and 50 or even 100 weight thread in the bobbin. I use a Metallic or Topstitching needle, because the eyes are larger on these needles, and there is less chance of fraying the thread. The topstitching with this combination is lovely.
Silk thread is strong, but I have never had the experience of having the thread tear the fabric when stressed, a comment that I have heard. It must happen, I?m assuming, but it has never happened to me. Silk thread breaks, just like any other thread, and in my experience has broken before the fabric has been affected (on the rare occasion in which this has happened. The most notorious seam for thread breakage is probably the crotch seam in pants. If the pants are particularly fitted, then I use a polyester thread for this crotch seam instead of silk thread, so that there is a bit more give before all heck breaks loose.
I use machine weight (50 weight) silk thread to assemble garments made with wool and silk blends?jackets, sheaths, pants, trousers, tops and vests. The seams sink down into the fabric and can become almost invisible, because the satiny finish of the silk thread reflects the color of the fabric.
Compared with other threads used in garment construction, silk thread is expensive, at $4.50 per 100 meter spool, and usually adds about $10 to the total cost of the garment. As I said, it?s a delicious pleasure, not a necessity.

Step A. The Jacket Front

Stay stitching

I always stay stitch the front neck edge before starting.
Next, I stitch the side front to the front piece.
Then I reinforce the armscye: the upper half with small bias strips and the lower half with a firmer twill tape.

I force the twill tape into a curved shape with my iron before applying it to the armscye. To do this, I place the twill tape under the iron with one end peeking out. I pull that end into a circle as I press hard with my iron. This causes the twill tape to curve slightly. It is easier to set into the armscye whenit is ?pre-curved? this way. Both bias and straight stay tape are available from www.clotilde.com . I trim the stay tapes away from the shoulder seam allowance to minimize bulk, and leave a tail of twill tape at the side seam so it can continue onto the back armhole once the side seam is joined.
Of course the stay tape is pre shrunk before using, by dipping it into hot water and rolling it nearly dry in a towel before hanging to dry.
On my last few jackets, I have used ?combination tape? which is a thin piece of stay tape stitched to bias stay tape, instead of the bias tape on part of the jacket seam and twill tape on the rest. I use it everywhere?shoulders, armholes, and back neck seams. I really like using it, but I haven?t worn the jackets enough to be able to evaluate its performance in the long run. Early findings are that this tape is great. I bought it from Mary Ellen Flury before she went out of business. I would think that other tailor?s supply houses, such as Greenberg and Hammer, www.greenberg-hammer.com ,would have it available as well.
If the front shoulder seamline has a good deal of ?give? to it, I reinforce it with a preshrunk strip of very lightweight cotton, cut on the straight of the grain, or the selvage from silk organza. I keep this reinforcement out of the overlapping seam allowance areas at the neck and shoulder edge to minimize bulk. I firmly stretch these reinforcing strips as I press to eliminate any stretch before stitching them to the jacket a scant 5/8 inch into the seam allowance.

Welt Pockets and Other Pocket Styles

Next, welt pockets, if desired, should be sewed to the jacket fronts. Great care should be taken in the placement of these pockets, because once they are in, they cannot be changed. Many sewing experts recommend the use of templates made from tag board or manila folder material to aid in this placement process. There are many tailoring books which show the stepwise insertion of a welt pocket. The Singer Sewing Library book mentioned above is a good one, but there are many more. In general, most reference books will be easier to follow than some of the pattern insert instructions on making the welt pocket, I feel.

Because I like to work with as flat a surface as possible, I don?t stitch in any darts into the front before the pockets are made, unless they intersect with the welt pockets.

Other pockets styles may be stitched at this time as well. Sometimes I don?t stitch patch pockets on until later, so I can play with them as a design element. Sometimes, only after the body of the jacket is sewn, can I see how I want the pockets placed, and whether, for example I want them cut on the bias for an interesting effect (fused onto the straight of grain underlining so they don?t stretch out of shape), or placed higher or lower than indicated by the pattern.

Bound Buttonholes

The next step is tosew the bound buttonholes on both the jacket front and the sleeve cuffs, if they are desired. A bound buttonhole is essentially a teeny welt pocket,without the pocketing. There are many excellent references for sewing bound buttonholes. Any good sewing reference book on tailoring should contain the stepwise method.

I particularly like the Bound Buttonhole section in Roberta Carr?s book, Couture, the Fine Art of Sewing for some interesting ideas, but for great, highly detailed pictures and stepwise instructions, the Singer Sewing Library?s book on Tailoring, mentioned previously, is a winner.

The worst thing about putting the bound buttonholes in at this stage (it?s easier to make them on a flat piece, as opposed to wrestling with the entire jacket at the end of the assembly process) is that one has to know exactly where the buttons should be. As described in Step 3 of this web log, there are some preferable positions for buttonholes and more visually pleasing spacings for them as well, based on the size of the buttons and the length of the jacket opening. However, it is really nice to be able to decide on the buttonhole spacing after the jacket is completely assembled and can be tried on with the buttons pinned in place to determine the best look. So, I make sure I REALLY want bound buttonholes in my jacket before I put them in at this point. There?s no doubt that bound buttonholes are beautiful and give a very classy look to a jacket. For those reasons, I bite the bullet and put them in before the jacket is assembled, and just trust that I have chosen wisely in my buttonhole positioning.

On my JJJ jacket, I decided to make machine buttonholes and to eliminate the pockets, since the ribbon embellishment covers the areas where pockets would normally be placed.

Zegna fabric cashmere

2008-06-12T00:06:00.000+07:00

Cashmere

Cashmere is a particularly rare and precious fiber. Annual world production of cashmere is only five million kilograms in fact.

Cashmere fibers are obtained from a certain species of goat, commonly known as the Kashmir goat, which is bred in places such Iran, Russia, Afghanistan, Turkey and India. But the most beautiful and most prestigious cashmere in the world comes from the highlands of Inner Mongolia, in China, a territory with a very harsh climate. Inner Mongolia Cashmere is outstanding for the fineness of its fibers (14 - 15 µ), their length and uniformity and for the particularly soft handle they give.

To protect themselves from the cold, Kashmir goats have two coats: one superficial, of bulky hair, and one closer to the body, consisting of a short, fine and very warm down known as duvet. In springtime, shepherds collect the wool manually using special combs with long teeth. The fibers of the two coats are then separated, because only the duvet makes real cashmere. Each animal provides around 200 grams of fiber, but only half of this can be used to make cashmere yarn.

Up till the early 1900s, cashmere was only added in a small percentage to wool fibers to produce a slightly softer and warmer handle. Technological progress and changes in consumer tastes brought about a gradual increase in that percentage till the advent of 100% cashmere fabrics, which are now status symbols indicating a superior lifestyle. Cashmere fabrics may be worsted or woollen and made in numerous ways, from plain fabrics for blazers and overcoats to patterned fabrics for luxury jackets and suits. A more recent development of cashmere offers super-lightweight versions for spring, characterized by their extraordinary impalpability.

Zegna fabric mixed

2008-06-12T00:05:00.000+07:00

Mixed fabrics

Cashco
Cashco is a modern, lightweight velvet, a new mixture of cotton and cashmere. Two fibers belonging to different seasons and different climates are combined by Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna to produce a sophisticated yet informal looking fabric. An original idea that has engendered its own “free and easy” style. Cashco is versatile and has a soft, silky handle, which would be unusual a traditional velvet. Another distinctive feature of this fabric is the extremely rich color palette. All characteristics that make this a fabric for all seasons.

Silk Skin
Chinese silk, a very fine and lustrous fiber, and soft Egyptian cotton combine to produce Silk Skin, a full and elastic fabric ideal for plain velvet, with original characteristics, and a sophisticated ribbed corduroy. Finishing and dyeing give the fabric a handle and appearance perfect for particularly sophisticated clothing but also for pleasantly informal leisure wear.

Shetlair
Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna has successfully revived a taste for Shetland by creating a contemporary version of it. Shetlair is a new mixture of lustrous South African mohair, precious Chinese cashmere and fine Australian merino wool.

Wool/Silk
Ermenegildo Zegna enjoys both technological and stylistic innovation. The union of these two tendencies has created a wool/silk combination having the strength of wool and the luster of silk.

Zegna fabric

2008-06-12T00:01:00.000+07:00

Article

Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna fabrics

Basing itself on all the years of experience it has acquired, while at the same time constantly investing in research and new technology, the Ermenegildo Zegna wool mill has concentrated most of its activities upon the production of high quality wool, cashmere and mohair fabrics. In other words, the best there could possibly be in the world in terms of noble fibers.

Another basic feature of fabrics is the production cycle undergo which creates two distinctive types of fabrics: worsted and woolen.

Worsted fabrics are generally cooler and lighter (nearly all fabrics weighing under 250 g are worsted) and have a more "smoothen" (less "fuzzy") appearance. Worsted fabrics are made from longer fibers, which produce finer yarns. Worsted yarns can also be high-twisted, which increases strength and crease recovery and gives the fabric a cooler, drier handle. Examples include High Performance and fabrics in the Traveller family.

Woollen fabrics have a bulkier look, are warmer (not so much because of their weight as the finishes applied to them) and are used mainly for winter wear. Woollen fabrics are made with shorter fibers, which tend to “stick out” from the yarn, giving the fabric its characteristic fuzzy, full and warm appearance. Woollen fabrics are generally heavier than worsted ones. In the finishing stages, they can be fulled and gauzed (brushed) to make the hair rise from the surface and accentuate volume and softness. Of the woollen products from Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna, the most outstanding are the cashmere fabrics and accessories: precious, soft, warm, comfortable and always innovative.

one point about canvas

2008-05-18T19:17:00.003+07:00

Floating canvas. What that?
Canvas is the material that any tailor would have stitch between the fabric and the lining 50 years ago. That the old fashion of doing a jacket.
Today's tailor do not use canvas but interfacing that is fused on the fabric in the inside of the jacket front part. Now with the technology the canvas as come something that you don't and that nobody use. People whom want a floating canvas are person whom want to remember the old time but not because it look better or feel better.

Now the price for a jacket with floating canvas will go to 2000.-$ up for no reason only that you need experienced tailor.

For the same quality jacket with interfacing you will go for 500.-$. Even Amani, Versace etc.. use interfacing.

Now it is up to you if you want to go to a British or Italian tailor to have made a jacket with floating canvas.

Willy

PHOTO: Albert or Marylin

2008-05-06T16:54:00.002+07:00

This does work

When you look at this pic close you see Albert Einstein. But if you stand at a 5 meter distance, it will become Marilyn Monroe. Give it a try .
amazing!!

PHOTOS; rare photos of Calcutta part 3

2008-04-28T18:01:00.001+07:00

Calcutta (1947)

		I got a link to these photos from a friend of mine. I consider all of them treasures and fear that it will be lost in time. Already the links on the page (where i found these photos) are not working. I guess it wont be long before these pages get pulled down. So, I copied them all to flickr. The decriptions of the photos are the original words from the photographer himself. The next paragraph is from the original site where I found these photographs. ------------ --------- -------- ------------ - The South Asia Section of the Van Pelt Library, University of Pennsylvania recently acquired from a bookdealer a photograph album consisting of 60 photographs of Calcutta taken most likely between 1945-1946. The photographer, Mr. Claude Waddell, also provided the interesting glosses accompanying each photograph. Several attested copies of this work has emerged including one with a 'title page' held by the Southeastern Louisiana University in Hammond, Louisiana. Mr. Waddell was a military photographer. Many of his captions sound like annotations that would be found in a typical military magazine.The album begins with several general long shots of Calcutta and ends with a picture of A mysterydhobi- s (washermen) washing clothes. The text accompanying the last photograph also sounds as if the author intended to finish with that picture of one of the "great mysteries of India.". The annotations have been included because of their intrinsic interest not only to the photographs but to a 'typical' American impression of India at this time. I have included below a few recent titles published on Calcutta which the reader may be interested in consulting and comparing with this collection of photographs. The call numbers are to the volumes held by the Van Pelt Library.

Howrah Bridge - Engineering Marvel

Calcutta boasts the third largest cantielver bridge in the world. Its real importance, however, lies in the fact that it serves as Calcutta's gateway to the wese, being the city's only bridge spanning the Hooghly. Taking 7 years to build, it cost $10,000,000. It towers 310 feet as the city's highes structure, is 2,150 feet long with a center span of 1,500 feet. It was completed in 1942, opened in February, 1943.

Chowringhee Square

Calcutta's main throughfare, an amazing parade of fascinating sights and sounds. Every soldier who has trod its length retains memories of one of the most colorful and interesting streets in the world.

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The Mohammddan mosque, Juma Masjid, is shown at left. This is actually one of the quiet moments when GI trucks, taxis, bicycles and other modes of transport can move with comparative freedom.

Billboards

A bewildering mass of billboards at the corner of Harrison Street (Burra Bazar) and Strand Road. One of the oldest secions of Calcutta, at the foot of Howrah Bridge, it is a fine vantage point for photo-graphing the passing parade of oddly dressed natives and curious vehicles.

Calcutta's traffic is usually snarled. And the reasons are clearly shown. Shuffling coolies and padestrians with little regard for their lives seem completely oblivious to the perils of automitive traffic.

This cocoanut market on Cornwallis stret is a sample of the haphazard way in which many basars are opperated. The popular pauses for refresment is indulged by Indian in central foreground drinking cocoanut milk.

Sidewalk tonsorial parlor. India probably has a greater proportion of barbers than any nation, for in addition to the many salons which cater to the European and higher type Indian trade, these sidewalk shavers seem to ply their trade in every other block.

Shoemakers

Nightlife in Calcutta

Nightfall in Calcutta stirs the imagination and curiosity as to waht goes on down dimly-lit alleys often leads an occasional soldier into the out-of-bounds areas. If you don't know the way, five rupees will buy a trip to the few still existent brothels in one of the garies shown here. (Warning: MP's take a poor view).

Reading stuff

Corner bookstalls, specializing in lurid novels, sec treatises, are fascinationg spots for British and American soldiers alike. Typical titles, "The Escapades of Erotic Edna", "Kama Sutra, The Hindu Art of Love".

New Market

Probably the largest market in the East is the New Market. Convering several blocks in the downtown area, the 2,000 stalls offer most anything you could ask for, wartime shortages excepted. In addition to all the items appealing to the local and tourist trade, the market contains giant food departments.

Waiting for the trains

An Indian family sweat out a train. Cooking vessels, clothes and beggin are surrounded by this group which is distinguished by the presence of one of India's wandering holy men, (at right with painted brow).

The mark of Snack

A group of GI's take a close look at the snake-wallah' s hooded cobra. Both the snake and his master are good specimens. The fangs, of course, have been removed so the reptile can strike at will, scaring no one.

Snake Charmer

This weird-looking snake charmer is doing his best to coax a balcony audience to toss down enough baksheesh to get his cobra nad mongoose in the mood to stage a fight to the finish. Actually the combatants always seem a bit bored with the act and after a few fierce

snorts and lunges, decide it is better to live.

Old Court House Street

This buffalo herd's movements seem to be guided by whim alone and are typical of the complete indifference
to traffic control by man and animal alike. This is Old Court House street, one of Calcutta's busiest. In left background is Great Eastern Hotel, Calcutta's best, used by U.S. Officers as a billet.

Young mothers

India has thousands of child brides. The unfortunate young waman shown here feeding the infant from the giant coconat in foreground has been seen on Calcutta's streets day after day with he child. Her misery is more than typical thousands of India's unfortunates.

PHOTOS; rare photos of Calcutta 1944 part2

2008-04-28T17:53:00.002+07:00

Calcutta In 1944

This collection is comprised of photographs taken during World War II by an American serviceman, Glenn S. Hensley.

Chowringee Road

Chowringee Road at Esplanade, center of Calcutta

Trolley

Esplanade trolley junction point. Chung Sun Chinese restaurant is visible at far left. Was a really good place to get Chinese food

News sellers

News sellers at the Esplanade

Red Cross Club

"North along today's Old Courthouse Street. At left is Dalhousie Square. Building at right with American Flag was the American Red Cross club for American servicemen, 1944. Church at left is on today's Lal Bazaar Street."

Street activity

"Activity along what is today, I think, R. N. Mukharji Street. Anyway, it is in that vicinity"

Nehru Road

"North up today's Nehru Road toward today's Bentinck Street from the intersection of Nehru Road and Esplande Row East, Lenin streets. Photo made from second floor Chung Sun restaurant building. Calcutta Statesman newspaper office is just out of sight to right."

Looking south on Chowringee Road

" Chowringee Road near the tram terminus. Building with clock tower housed Whiteaway and Laidlaw department store. It stocked good, British and Indian made clothing and accessories. Even in 1944, the Hotel Continental lacked most modern conveniences. The Great Eastern Hotel, however, was excellent and its food great! Calcutta."

Christmas decorations

Christmastime decorations for sale in Calcutta's New Market, December 1944."

Phonograph for sale

Phonographs offered for sale in Calcutta

Ice cream freezer

Noel Hepp, U. S. serviceman from Troy, New York, negotiates a price on an ice cream freezer from a young vendor in a stall along a Calcutta street"

Intersection

"Looking northeast across the intersection of Chowringee and today's Lenin (Was Dharamtolla, I think) street. Esplanade tram terminus is off to the left, out of sight."

Nahkoda Mosque

Looking down from Nahkoda Mosque on street activity, Calcutta, 1944. Note brick ""blast walls"" to protect from potential bomb damage. These are the vertical walls you will see in front of some buildings' doors."

Rabindra Street

Looking south down today's Rabindra Street from the Nakhoda Mosque. I think the dome at right of center on the horizon is the post office on Dalhousie Square.

Movie house

Looking south down Chowringee Road from tram terminus. Maidan is on right. Calcutta, 1944. Note movie ""Red Skeleton and Esther Williams in Bathing Beauty,"" at the Metro."

Tram terminus scene

PHOTOS; rare photos of Calcutta 1944

2008-04-28T17:53:00.000+07:00

Calcutta In 1944

This collection is comprised of photographs taken during World War II by an American serviceman, Glenn S. Hensley.

Chowringee Road

Chowringee Road at Esplanade, center of Calcutta

Trolley

Esplanade trolley junction point. Chung Sun Chinese restaurant is visible at far left. Was a really good place to get Chinese food

News sellers

News sellers at the Esplanade

Red Cross Club

Street activity

"Activity along what is today, I think, R. N. Mukharji Street. Anyway, it is in that vicinity"

Nehru Road

Looking south on Chowringee Road

Christmas decorations

Christmastime decorations for sale in Calcutta's New Market, December 1944."

Phonograph for sale

Phonographs offered for sale in Calcutta

Ice cream freezer

Noel Hepp, U. S. serviceman from Troy, New York, negotiates a price on an ice cream freezer from a young vendor in a stall along a Calcutta street"

Intersection

"Looking northeast across the intersection of Chowringee and today's Lenin (Was Dharamtolla, I think) street. Esplanade tram terminus is off to the left, out of sight."

Nahkoda Mosque

Rabindra Street

Looking south down today's Rabindra Street from the Nakhoda Mosque. I think the dome at right of center on the horizon is the post office on Dalhousie Square.

Movie house

Looking south down Chowringee Road from tram terminus. Maidan is on right. Calcutta, 1944. Note movie ""Red Skeleton and Esther Williams in Bathing Beauty,"" at the Metro."

Tram terminus scene

PHOTOS; very rare photos of Calcutta

2008-04-28T17:01:00.001+07:00

Calcutta Before 1947 Pic

got a link to these photos from a friend of mine. I consider all of them treasures and fear that it will be lost in time. Already the links on the page (where i found these photos) are not working. I guess it wont be long before these pages get pulled down. So, I copied them all to flickr. The decriptions of the photos are the original words from the photographer himself. The next paragraph is from the original site where I found these photographs.

------------ --------- -------- ------------ -

The South Asia Section of the Van Pelt Library, University of Pennsylvania recently acquired from a bookdealer a photograph album consisting of 60 photographs of Calcutta taken most likely between 1945-1946.

The photographer, Mr. Claude Waddell, also provided the interesting glosses accompanying each photograph. Several attested copies of this work has emerged including one with a 'title page' held by the Southeastern Louisiana University in Hammond, Louisiana.

Mr. Waddell was a military photographer. Many of his captions sound like annotations that would be found in a typical military magazine.The album begins with several general long shots of Calcutta and ends with a picture of A mysterydhobi- s (washermen) washing clothes. The text accompanying the last photograph also sounds as if the author intended to finish with that picture of one of the "great mysteries of India.".

The annotations have been included because of their intrinsic interest not only to the photographs but to a 'typical' American impression of India at this time.

I have included below a few recent titles published on Calcutta which the reader may be interested in consulting and comparing with this collection of photographs. The call numbers are to the volumes held by the Van Pelt Library.

Nimtolla Mosque, Calcutta

The Nimtolla Mosque, largest Mohammedan mosque in Calcutta. Its prayer hall will accommodate 10,000 worshipers. A modern specimen of Indo-Sarascenic architecture, its Minarets (towers) are 151 feet high. GI truck at entrance is waiting for a load of soldiers on American Red Cross tour.

Hindustan Building, Calcutta

Hindustan building, one of the most modern in Calcutta, was built for an insurance company but occupied upon its completion by the U.S. Army. Located in the heart of the city, it is the nerve center of all military business, containing post office, finance office, Base Section offices, air, rail booking offices, a radio station, giant post exchange, officers mess and living quarters, signal offices and others.

Calcutta Downtown

Aerial view of Calcutta downtown. In upper left background is Hindustan building, U.S. Army HQ. The oldest part of the city starts at the esplanade and extends upwards. The city was founded in the early 1700's.

Hoogly River, Calcutta

Hooghly river and part of Calcutta's east bank but for this giant stream Calcutta would likely never have been built. Nevertheless the river affords many spectacles and has accomodated millions of tons of supplies necessary to the war effort.

A street gathering

Crowd gathers round a sidewalk performer at bus stop while GI's take temporary advantage of an overhead view from steps of a camp bus. This is a good spot for hawkers, beggars, shoe shine boys, showmen to work on the bankroll of the 'rich American soldier'

Brave Indian Commuters, Calcutta

Indians are the bravest commuters in the world. They hang from every handhold. The two shown here, however, are bent on clinching a seat before the car fills. Ancient double-decker buses sway and chug under the strain of double overloads and trams make packed New York subways seem comfortable by comparison.

Buffalo Herd on the Road, Calcutta

This buffalo herd's movements seem to be guided by whim alone and are typical of the complete indifference to traffic control by man and animal alike. this is Old Court House street, one of Calcutta's busiest. In left background is Great Eastern Hotel, Calcutta's best, used by U.S. Officers as a billet.

A busy Calcutta Traffic Scene

The American Red Cross Burra Club, Calcutta

The American Red Cross Burra Club, leave center for GI's and recreation spot for all enlisted men. The unpretentious facade belies an interior complete with dormitory, snack bar, restaurant, music room games room, lounge, barber and tailor shops, wrapping service department and post exchange.

Opium Den in Chinatown, Calcutta

A little snooping in Chinatown will turn up the little opium dens stuck down an alley (not recommended without police escort). Actually, the smokers shown in this picture do it legally. Each den is licensed for so many pipes. Each pipe costs a rupee, a phial of opium five rupees. Average smoker consumes aphial a day and there are about 186 pipes licensed in Calcutta.

Early Morning in Calcutta

Early morning in many Calcutta street finds natives huddled around a breakfast teapot, having risen from their sidewalk abode. The milkman makes a regular stop at this community gathering on busy Park street

Famine of 1943, Calcutta

The indifference of the passerby on this downtown Calcutta street to the plight of the dying woman in the foreground is considered commonplace. During the famine of 1943, cases like this were to be seen in most every block, and though less frequent now, the hardened public reaction seems to have endured.

Calcutta Stock Exchange

Street scene outside the Calcutta stock exchange. The noise is similar to the bedlam in all word exchange and many transactions (unofficial) take place in the street as shown here.

Sacred Cattle and Coolie

Sacred cattle and coolies push and pull great carts to the loading platform of the Howrah railroad station in background, on of the city's two stations. Howrah is on the west bank of the river, and Sealdah, the other station, is in another section of Calcutta on the east side.

New American Kitchen

After a couple of years in India, the bizarre aspects of street life become commonplace to the average soldier, as evidenced by the scant notice given the passing snake-walla by the GI at right bargaining for a shine from one of he city's hundreds of bootblacks. The New American Kitchen is a popular Chinese restaurant, owned by a Portuguese, and serves up a steak of chop-suey before you can say "Teek hai".

People lined up to buy Kerosene Oil

Calcutta's poor from a line to buy kerosene at 6 a.m. Each little cubicle may contain a shop and living quarters for a family ranging possibly from 6 to 12. Sanitary facilities consist of an open street drain.

Short history of the shirt

2008-04-21T19:03:00.000+07:00

History of the Shirt

The article of clothing often symbolizing elegance and refinement but also an expression of liberty, the shirt for centuries has accompanied and characterized the life of men. Worn by emperors, generals and by common people without distinction, with the passage of time it assumes different roles and meanings.

Until the time of the Italian Republic (1860s), as can be deduced from Latin sources, known by the term "subucula" the shirt had the function of modern undergarments. His historians report that Charles the Great "...wore directly on his person a shirt and pants of linen cotton." Men and women in the city and the country dressed in the same manner: shirt and long tunic with sleeves of different dimensions. The popularity of the shirt continuously increased and it became a gift object for both the privileged and the needy.

Beginning in the 1300s also art and literature give prominence to this top garment: in the canvases of many painters among which is Caravaggio, or in the literary works such as Boccaccio's Decameron, where often men and women wore shirts. We suppose therefore that its wide adoption was above all for reasons of hygiene.

Many cities became famous for their shirt production, such as Venice, where for the wedding of noblewoman Lucieta Gradenigo a "shirt of gold" was created. In the 1500s the true protagonist was the collar: from the small flat collars called French to the Italian version that took the form and name of "frill", to the "giorgiera" that required an enormous expanse of fabric up to 11 meters (36 ft.).

In 1843 at Montevideo in Italy the famous red shirt of the Garibaldini was born.
The shirt, its success constantly growing, began to alter its style according to the occasion: white without a collar and with wide sleeves for the painter, white and at times without a right sleeve for the sword duel, or well hidden under the jacket for pistols. In the 20th century it was above all the American cinema that popularized different types of shirts. Pure white shirts with flowing sleeves worn by Rudolph Valentino, the "Oxford" of Humphrey Bogart, the type suited for the hard life of the far west worn on screen by John Wayne, or to finish, the mythic Hawaiian worn by Tom Sellek in the cult series "Magnum P.I." of the 1980s.

Of the many types of shirts, how can one forget the "button down", in particular for the varying accounts of its true origin and authorship. The most memorable suggests that the founder of this most famous American shirt industry, the cult following of this leader of shirts, was inspired in England at a polo match where the players had their collars attached to keep them from flapping in the wind. The more credited version however is another in which its anonymous inventor found himself on a pier in the New York harbor during a particularly windy day and, annoyed by his collar blowing in the wind, attached it at the ends with buttons made of mother of pearl. Whichever is its true genesis, the "button down" is found in formal settings, with the collar open, in moments of relaxation, and dressed up with a tie or bowtie for important occasions, demonstrating that it is the most versatile leader of the many models of shirts.

With this brief voyage through the history of the shirt we can see that from its first appearance in ancient times to today man has never stopped producing it in new shapes and fashions, wearing it in different ways and loving it with an immutable passion,

part 5 final Hawaiian shirts

2008-04-21T18:41:00.001+07:00

Diamond Head Sportswear
Old Aloha Print, Shirt & Dress
Museum of Sold Out items" border="0" height="60" hspace="0" vspace="0" width="261">
Hawaiian Aloha Styles

Few things say more about Hawai'i than the aloha shirt.
Tourists see them as exotic souvenirs, but for locals, they serve as a uniform for the tropical soul, an expressive symbol that says the wearer has embraced the casual pace of Island living.
Consider this: Hawai'i is the only state in the nation where the traditional uniform of business - the suit and power tie - is regularly scrapped in favor of loose-fitting aloha shirts.
One could even argue that the Mainland practice of "casual Fridays" has its origins in the aloha shirt. In 1966, the Chamber of Commerce of Hawai'i created Aloha Fridays so that government employees who dressed according to Mainland fashion could wear aloha shirts instead.
When the first aloha shirts appeared is not clear, but many feel they gained their initial widespread popularity in the 1930's.

Businessmen Ellery J. Chun registered the trade name "aloha" shirt in 1936. Chun ran a store, and he and his sister designed short-sleeved shirts out of leftover kimono material. Chun placed the shirts in the window of his store with a sign that said, "Aloha Shirts". The shirts quickly caught the eye of local residents, including surfers and beach boys who entertained tourists in Waikiki.
Then as now, wearers loved their loose-fitting cut and their brightly colored patterns.
And their designs were a visual treat, filled with flowers, pineapples, palm trees, surfers, hula dancers - any image that could create a dreamy, romantic image of the islands.
Reprinted from an article by Mike Gordon from the Honolulu Advertiser, July 2, 2006.

Most of these prints shown on this page are Sold Out. Sold Out means there is no more fabric. These Paradise Found shirt and dress prints are shown here for your enjoyment. A few of these prints have been revised and re-issued. ALL prints in all styles are made in very limited quantities, one at a time in Honolulu. New prints are added frequently. Most prints, when sold out, become 'retired'. Once a print is retired it will not be re-issued.



Airplanes Hawaiian Aloha Shirt	Sea Planes Hawaiian Shirt	Anthurium Men's Aloha Shirt	Bamboo Parrots Hawaiian Shirt



Asian Cranes Kamehameha	Banana Tree Aloha Sun Dress	Banana Tree Hawaiian Shirt	Banana Palm Sarong Dress



Banana Hula Girl Hawaiian Shirt	Bird of Paradise Men's Cotton	Bird of Paradise #2 Button Front	Bird of Paradise Short Tank Dress



Bird of Paradise Orig. Sun Dress	California Men's Aloha Shirt	Casino Hawaiian Shirt	Cattleya Orchid Aloha Sun Dress



Catalina - Women's Aloha Shirt	Chili Pepper #1 Aloha Shirt	Chili Pepper #2 Men's Shirt	Chili Pepper #3 Men's Shirt



Chili Pepper #3 Aloha Blouse	Coconut Panel Hawaiian Shirt	Coconut Tree Hawaiian Aloha Shirt (Original Print)	Mele Kalikimaka Aloha Shirt



Mele Kalikimaka Men's Aloha	Santa's Helpers Men's Hawaiian Aloha Cristmas Shirt	Corvette 500 Hawaiian Shirt	Cruise Ships Hawaiian Shirt



Florida Women's Aloha Shirt	Florida Hawaiian Aloha Sun Dress	Florida (Original) Men's Aloha Shirt	Fly Fishing Men's Aloha Shirt



Fighter Airplanes Original Print	Fruit Panel Hawaiian Shirt	Ginger Heliconia Men's Aloha	Ginger Heliconia Sarong Dress



Ginger & Palm - Hawaiian Sun Dress	Ginger Palm Hawaiian Blouse	Golf Dreams Men's Shirt	Grape Vines Hawaiian Shirt



Hala Lei Hawaiian Shirt	Old Hawaii Hawaiian Shirt	Hawaii Garden Hawaiian Shirt	Heliconia Panel Tropical Shirt



Heliconia Panel Aloha Blouse	Helicopters Hawaiian Aloha Shirt	Hibiscus Men's Aloha Shirt	Hurricane Wedding White Short Tank



Wedding White Long Tank Dress	Hurricane Panel Hawaiian Shirt	Jazz Hawaiian Shirt	Lauhala Hawaiian Shirt



Broad Leaf Hawaiian Shirt	Lei Surfboard Hawaiian Shirt	Lighthouse Ocean Hawaiian Shirt	Mustang Hawaiian Shirt



Macaws Hawaiian Shirt	Makani (190) Long Tank Dress	Makani Women's Hawaiian Aloha Shirt	Mardi Gras Men's Aloha Shirt



Marlin Hawaiian Shirt	Mele Kalikimaka Aloha Shirt	Midnight Palm Orig. Men's	Midnight Palm - Hawaiian Aloha Long Tank Dress



Monstera Hawaiian Shirt	Choppers Men's Aloha Shirt	Orbit Lounge Men's Shirt	Orchid Hibiscus Hawaiian Shirt



Orchid & Fern Women's Shirt	Orchid & Fern Aloha Blouse	Orchid & Fern Short Tank	Orchid & Fern Sarong Dress



Star Orchid Panel Hawaiian Shirt	Painted Desert Hawaiian Shirt	Palm Ginger Hawaiian Shirt	Palm Ginger Short Tank Dress



Palm Sand Hawaiian Shirt	Palm Dobby	Paradise Park Hawaiian Shirt	Paradise Tropic Hawaiian Shirt



Parrots Original Men's Aloha Shirt	Parrot Leaves Hawaiian Blouse	Parrot Panel Men's Aloha Shirt	Parrot Fern Hawaiian Shirt



Pink Flamingos Men's Shirt	Pink Flamingos Aloha Sun Dress	Pink Flamingos Women's Shirt	Pink Flamingos Hawaiian Aloha Shirt - COTTON



Pink Flamingos (190) Long Tank	Pink Flamingos - Hawaiian Long Tank Dress	Pineapple Label Hawaiian Shirt	Pineapples Hawaiian Shirt



Pineapple Tropic Hawaiian Shirt	Pineapple Tropic Style 190 Hawaiian Aloha Long Tank Dress	Scenic Pineapple Hawaiian Shirt	Old Plumeria Hawaiian Shirt



Plumeria Short Tank Dress	Red Ginger Hawaiian Shirt	Route 66 - Corvettes Hawaiian Shirt	Shell Ginger Short Tank Dress



Shell Ginger Style 190 Hawaiian Aloha Long Tank Dress	San Francisco City Hawaiian Shirt	Southwest Hawaiian Aloha Shirt	South Pacific Original Aloha Shirt



Star Orchid Panel Short Tank	Surfer Hawaiian Shirt	Volkswagen Surf Hawaiian Shirt	Tahitian Gardenia Hawaiian Shirt



Tahitian Gardenia Tank Dress		Tiger Lilly Men's Hawaiian Shirt	South Pacific Tiki God Men's Shirt



Toucan Hawaiian Shirt	Locomotive Trains Men's Shirt	Tree Tops - Parrots Hawaiian Shirt	Ukulele Hawaiian Shirt - COTTON



Volkswagon Surf Bug	Ukulele Surf Boards Hawaiian Shirt	Waimea Ladies Hawaiian Aloha Shirt	Waimea Short Tank Dress



Watercolor Orchid Sarong Dress	Watercolor Orchid Aloha Sun Dress	Wedding White Long Tank Dress	Hurricane Wedding White Short Tank



White Ginger Capri Pants	White Ginger - Hawaiian Blouse	White Ginger Short Tank Dress	Woodie - Old Style



Woodie Hawaiian

Part 4 Hawaiian shirt pictures

2008-04-21T18:30:00.002+07:00

Boeing Aviation
Motorcylces, Choppers
Battleships
Fighter Airplanes & Bombers
Men's Hawaiian Aloha
Transportation Shirts" border="0" height="105" hspace="0" vspace="0" width="245">

Paradise Found and R. J. Clancy Men's Hawaiian Aloha Shirts; Aviation, Military, Automobiles, Locomotives, Ocean Liners and Motorcycles. Many prints are licensed by Boeing Aviation and General Motors. Corvette, Camaro, Cadillac and Pontiac prints are licensed by General Motors.



Antique Automobiles	Automobilia 1950's Men's	Early Flight Men's Aloha Shirt	Commercial Aviation Men's



Aviation History Men's Shirt	Hibiscus Fighter Planes Men's	Out of the Blue Aviation	Vintage Fighter Airplanes Men's



Island Aviation Aloha Shirt	Island Airplanes WW II Men's	Fighter Airplanes WW I Aloha Shirt	Fighter Airplanes WWII Aloha Shirt



Hibiscus Fighters II Men's Shirt	Fighter Bombers Men's Shirt	Fighter Bomber II Men's Shirt	Fighter Airplanes Men's Shirt



Helicopters Men's Aloha Shirt	Inter-Island Airways Men's	Pearl Harbor Memories	USS Midway Aircraft Carrier



Battleships Men's Aloha Shirt	Blue Woodie Heaven Aloha	Classic Chevy Men's Shirt	Drive-In Caddy Men's Shirt



Cadillac Cruising Men's Shirt	Cadillac Deco Men's Aloha Shirt	Camaros Men's Aloha Shirt	Corvette Panel Men's Aloha Shirt

Part 3 Hawaiian shirts come Maui shirts

2008-04-21T18:28:00.000+07:00

	The history of the Hawaiian or "Aloha Shirt" can be traced to the early western missionaries in the 19th century. They felt that it would be more appropriate, for the soon to be christianized natives, if they were covered. But the real fact is, that it wasn't until the mid 1930's that the Hawaiian shirt, as we know it today, started to be produced. Modern research discovers stories of a Waikiki, Honolulu, Chinese merchant, Mr. Ellery Chun, owner of King-Smith Clothiers and dry goods. Mr. Chun was born in Honolulu in 1909 and died June 16, 2000, at the age of 91.
	He is considered the pioneer of the Aloha Shirt. He and his sister, Ethel Chun Lum, fabricated the first brightly colored, floral, short-sleeved shirt from left-over kimono fabric. On July 15, 1936, Mr. Chun registered the "Aloha" trade name and began marketing a variety of Hawaiian-print shirts. The story goes on to tell of collaboration between a salesperson of the Honolulu Advertiser Newspaper and Mr. Chun to coin the phrase "Aloha Shirt". The future success of the Aloha Shirt was assured after placing one of his sister�s designed, short-sleeved shirts in his shop�s window with a sign that read "Aloha Shirt".

	The shirts were purchased by local residents, beach boys, surfers and tourists. The first advertisement placed in the Honolulu Advertiser using the words "Aloha Shirt" was on June 28, 1935. With the birth of Rayon in the mid 1920's, the dazzlingly colored and tropically decorated Hawaiian-Print Aloha shirt became a staple souvenir of cruise ship tourists. Early shirt labels bore names like Musa Shiya, Watamulls, Kamehameha, Kahala, Surfriders, Alfred Shaheen, Duke Kahanamoku, etc. The 1940's and 1950's furnish us with a memorable list of ersonalities depicted wearing Hawaiian-Print Aloha Shirts. Elvis Presley, the undisputed king of rock and roll had many Hawaiian Shirts. Here is an off-the-top-of-my-head, recollection, list of famous people, motion picture and television personalities, politicians and sports celebrities that have been photographed and featured wearing Hawaiian-Print Aloha shirts. Harry S. Truman, our 33rd President loved to wear Aloha Shirts. He was on the cover of Life Magazine in 1951 wearing one. Montgomery Cliff and Frank Sinatra were featured in the memorable motion picture "From here to Eternity" in Hawaiian-Print Aloha shirts.

		The immortal John Wayne, "The Duke", and venerate master surfer and Olympian, Duke Kahanamuku were Hawaiian shirt endorsements. Bing Crosby wore his Aloha shirts, with his rounded, flat-top porkpie hat atop his head and a pipe between his lips. Arthur Godfrey, radio personality played his ukulele wearing an Aloha Shirt. Johnny Weissmuller remembered as Tarzan and Olympian, Tom Selleck of Magnum P.I., the list continues. All wore Hawaiian-Print Aloha shirts. And, who amongst us does not have a Hawaiian Print in our wardrobe closet? The Hawaiian-Print Aloha shirt has become a symbol of this island paradise; Hawaii. "Aloha", interprets to epitomize a warm sense of greeting, welcoming and at the same time reflecting all the playful, splendid and natural wonders that abound in Hawaiian Islands.

Part 2 floral Hawaiian

2008-04-21T18:02:00.000+07:00

Caddy Crusin' Hawaiian Shirt	Florida Hawaiian Shirt	Magnum PI Hawaiian Shirts
Mardi Gras Hawaiian Shirt	Pink Flamingo Hawaiian Shirt	Surfboards and Ukulele's Hawaiian Shirt

Part 1 Hawaiian shirt

2008-04-21T17:54:00.000+07:00

Hawaiian Shirts History

Hawaiian Shirt Overview
Hawaiian shirts have a long and storied history in the 50th State. There have been numerous stories, fictions, and outright half-truths that have been perpetuated about the origins of the Hawaiian Shirt (known more popularly as the Aloha Shirt in Hawaii). We'll try to peel back some of the rumors, popular beliefs, and fables to bring you the actual tale of the evolution of the Hawaiian Shirt.

Prior to the establishment of the Hawaiian Shirt in the fashion annals, Honolulu was a rather conservative, somewhat drab place from a fashion standpoint.

Many have attributed the invention of the Aloha Shirt to Ellery Chun, owner of a Dry Goods store in Honolulu who sold the tropical print fashions in the 1930s. In truth, what we now know as the "Hawaiian Shirt" had already been in circulation for numerous years, although Mr. Chun had a major role in the Hawaiian Shirt's proliferation.

Immigrants Come to Hawaii
In the 1920s and 1930s immigrants from numerous countries began setting roots in Hawaii, seeking prosperity and a new life in what was then a Plantation town (primarily geared toward the growing and processing of Sugar Cane into refined sugar, and toward Pineapple harvesting).

Bright Kimono cloth came from Japan, the relaxed and cool-wearing Barong Tagalog (an untucked shirt) came from the Phillippines, bright formal colored garments and silk came from China, the traditional collared shirt style came from the USA, and native Hawaiians provided their own traditional geometric block patterns, first seen on the Kapa Malo (loin cloth) and Kapa Pa'u (similar to a sarong).

In Plantation-era Hawaii, the probable precursor to the modern Hawaiian Shirt was the Palaka Shirt and the Kimono-cloth shirt. The Palaka is a short sleeved shirt with bright geometric line patterns, that was widely worn by plantation workers. It has a plaid design, and resembles a checkerboard. Also popular during that time were short-sleeved shirts sewn by Japanese housekeepers and made out of leftover Kimono cloth, designed for Japanese boys and men.

Hawaiian Shirts - The Ellery Chun Factor
Ellery Chun was born in Hawaii in 1909. He attended Punahou School in Honolulu, and graduated from Yale University with a degree in Economics in 1931, in the midst of the Great Depression. After Yale, Chun returned to Hawaii to take over his Father's dry goods store in Downtown Honolulu, which had catered primarily to the local Chinese Community. Upon his return, and in an attempt to build business during the Depression, Chun expanded the scope of the store to appeal to a wider audience. He and his sister Ethel Chun Lum, began selling bright print short sleeve shirts made out of the leftover material from Japanese Kimonos. He also renamed the store King-Smith Clothiers (it was located on 36 North King Street in Honolulu).

Musashiya and Surfriders Sportswear
Meanwhile, during the same period in the mid 1930's, a business named "Musa-Shiya the Shirt Maker" was also making shirts from Japanese Kimono fabric. Musa-Shiya the Shirt Maker eventually evolved into "Musashiya", a fabric store that is still in business today at Honolulu's Ala Moana Shopping Center. The business advertised its "Aloha" shirts with a starting price of 95 cents per shirt!

In 1932, Ti Haw Ho, owner of Surfriders Sportswear Manufacturing began making and selling its "Hawaiian" shirts. Thus, in effect, the celestial shirt stars began magically aligning to produce our modern Hawaiian Shirt.

Some of the original Hawaiian prints sold by Chun included designs with Palm Trees, Hula Girls, and Pineapples. One of his tailors would make about 3 or 4 dozen at a time. Beginning in 1933, Chun was making his shirts out of cloth that was imported from the USA (at the time, Hawaii was a U.S. Territory, not a State), Japan, China, and Tahiti.

Hawaiian Shirt Popularity Grows
Local Hawaii residents, and Waikiki beachboys and surfers quickly noticed the shirts and began buying them in ever-increasing numbers. Over time, tourists, Hollywood movie stars, and other rich and famous visitors to Hawaii also began noticing the bright, casual, easy to wear styles, and began bringing styles home to the U.S. mainland.

After his success with the shirts in the early 1930's, Mr. Chun, trademarked the term "Aloha Shirt" in 1936. He continued selling his Aloha Shirts, and widely expanded his line, with his sister Ethel designing the fabrics and shirt styles. It was during this period that Ethel Chun Lum began creating the bright tropical fabric patterns that were based more on Hawaiian designs vs. Asian styles. It was this design shift that really established and cemented the modern Hawaiian Shirt style.

In the late 1930s, the entrepreneurial Chun also began sponsoring a local radio talent show, which originated on the beach in front of the Moana Surfrider Hotel. The show provided his merchandise even more publicity and accelerated the Hawaiian Shirt's popularity even more.

Aloha Shirts - Chun's Legacy
Chun became a member of the Board of Directors for American Security Bank in 1945. He later closed his landmark store and became a full-time Vice President for the Bank, where he worked until his retirement in 1966 (he remained on the Board until 1980, and remained an advisory director until 1985).

Ellery Chun passed away on May 16, 2000 in Honolulu at the age of 91. Although he may not have invented the garment, he certainly popularized it, helped establish a staple Hawaiian industry, and helped assure the Hawaiian Shirt an enduring place in fashion history.

Hawaiian Shirt Explosion!
By the 1950's, the Hawaiian Shirt had blazed into prominence. In August 1959 Hawaii became the 50th State of the U.S.A., bringing the new Aloha State even more attention, and most significantly, even more tourists!

Hawaiian shirts also began receiving high exposure in Hollywood movies, and a succession of popular Hawaii-based TV-Series through the late 1950's, 1960's, 1970's and 1980's - but that's a topic for another Hawaiian Shirt article!