It sounds like it should fit to a tee, look like a million bucks and show off your success, but unless you're difficult to fit, a made-to-measure suit probably isn't a good value.
Essentially, most suits fit most men, unless they have a body type that deviates greatly from the norm. In the end, made-to-measure simply is not worth the time and money.
"To me the made-to-measure is for somebody who has a problem with his body, such as a 12-inch drop from chest to waist — those people really do need made-to-measure — you always go back to the body," advises Franco Morgante, owner of his eponymous downtown menswear store. "A good tailor can make most suits fit the way they are supposed to. Most alterations we do are minor, but if there are major ones needed, we will do them."
Most ready-to-wear suits come with pants usually a few inches smaller than the jacket's chest size, which should be a close fit for most. But for those with a major drop between the chest and waist, made-to-measure may be the route to go. A man with a 32-waist who requires a size-44 suit might need to have things made from scratch because there would be almost too many alterations needed on the pant to ensure a good fit.
But the number of men who actually need this kind of attention is not great. Of the thousands of customers he dresses every year, Mr. Morgante estimates that a custom suit is appropriate for about three per cent. But he adds that his store caters more to younger buyers who are usually not difficult to fit and looking for brand-name label suits.
For most of them, he gets out his measuring tape and tailors a suit found hanging in his Sparks Street location.
Considering that buyers will spend about 15 per cent more for a made-to-measure suit, most can get a higher quality product by going with a ready made suit with a bit of adjustments here and there to ensure proper fit.
And just to be clear, Mr. Morgante is not talking about going down to the local bargain suit store and expecting it to look and feel fabulous. A Hyundai Accent gets you from A to B efficiently, but not in the same style and comfort expected from a Mercedes-Benz. And like it or not, others see you differently when you're behind the wheel of a well-appointed car or wearing a quality suit.
"Another thing to remember is that a made-to-measure suit won't give you the fashion that you get with a brand name suit, such as Canali, Versace, or Roberto Cavalli make," Mr. Morgante says. "It will look like an average suit that you see everywhere."
Men should expect to pay at least $750 for a good ready-made suit with made to measure starting at and roughly $900. Essentially, the quality of an entry-level made-to-measure suit and the ready-made equivalent are roughly identical, with the price difference usually chalked up to labour. So, in most cases, the straightforward advice is to put the extra $150 towards a better starting point.
"Any reliable clothing store will not let you walk out the door wearing a suit that doesn't fit the way it should," Mr. Morgante says. "It's a suit, you put it on and see: If it fits, why do you need made to measure?"
And that happens to be one of the main difficulties with the bargain made-to-measure suits that many buy when travelling. Yes it is possible to get a suit in some Southeast Asian countries for a few hundred dollars, but often you get what you pay for, Mr. Morgante insists.
"The unfortunate thing is that people look at the dollar sign but in many cases they don't get value. I have had many people come to me and complain their suits don't fit,"' he says.
But Mr. Morgante also understands that everyone won't be satisfied with a ready-made suit that's been altered. For some, it's a simple belief that custom-made is better, while others have specific tastes that must be met.
One common reason to go the made to measure route is a desire to use a fabric or style that simply isn't available in ready to wear products.
"If you want six pockets instead of four or you want something unusual that the fashion market isn't offering — some people prefer Nehru collar or safari pockets on their jacket —that's the thing you can address in made-to-measure," Morgante says.
By Jeff Pappone
Next I will explain fewc things about this article.
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