Long History of Tuxedo

History of the Tuxedo

Before the Tuxedo

The notion of a man “dressing up” after the sun goes down, whether it be in top hat and tails or simply in his best finery, has been with us for centuries. In fact, in the great European opera houses of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, the “dress circle” meant just that, with no one allowed in unless he or she was properly attired.

However, the idea of wearing black for evening wear was, according to the English clothing historian James Laver, first introduced by the nineteenth century British writer Edward Bulwer-Lytton, who utilized it “as a romantic gesture to show that he was a ‘blighted being’ and very, very melancholy.”

And it was Bulwer-Lytton who gave further impetus to this notion of black as a color for formal wear by writing, in 1828, that “people must be very distinguished to look well in black.” Naturally, the moment this statement was noted by would-be dandies, the style became decidedly de rigueur, and it wasn’t long before black became popular for daytime wear as well.

Although for years white tie and tails were the traditional mode of formal attire, the introduction of the dinner jacket added another viable alternative form which the well-dressed gentleman could choose.

The original dinner jacket was simply an adaptation of the “Cowes” jacket – a sort of compromise between a mess jacket, a smoking jacket, and a dress coat – invented for or by King Edward VII when he was Prince of Wales, and worn by him first at dinner aboard his yacht at Cowes and then later at other semi-formal evening gatherings away from London. The original single-breasted model was simply a tailcoat without a tail, worn with white pique, vest and later with a matching black vest of the same fabric as the jacket and trousers.

The Lore, The Lure, The Legend

All variety of fact and fiction surrounds the origin of “Tuxedo” and the elegant garment that bears its name.
It is said, for example, that the custom of the Algonquians was to name a place after the chief whose tribe occupied it, and that there was such named P’tauk-Seet, “the bear,” who, in the Seventeenth Century, ruled over a tract of land including what is now known as Tuxedo Combining P’Tauk-Seet-tough, “The Home of the Bear.”

Another version holds that the Indians called this area of lakes and hills, P’Tauk/Sepo, or so it was translated phonetically by the Dutch in their initial land grants. Since the Indians had no written language, these are the best records available.

1754

In written records dating back to 1754, these are references to Tuxedo Pond and later on, Tuxcito Pond, Tuxetough, Tucksito, Tugseto, Tucseto, Tuxedo, Texedo, and Toxedo.
The Marquis de Chastellux, in 1780, writes it as a Duck Sider and Duck Seeder. And in histories of the area dated 1857 and 1875, the name is corrupted to Duck Cedar with the explanation that the region is overgrown with cedar trees and is a favorite haunt of wild ducks.

1852

The Lorillard family began acquiring land in the Tuxedo area in 1800’s and by 1852, had come into possession of most of what had been known as the Cheescock Patent. They turned it into an elite hunting and fishing resort – a millionaire’s haven. With a labor force largely imported from Italy by Pierre Lorillard, they constructed a series of homes within the walled park in a matter of several months that stand today as a testament to the skill of the artisans. It was Tuxedo Park – High Society forty miles to the northwest of New York City.

1885

As the gilt-edged society of Tuxedo Park developed its own social schedule, some new names began to appear. For example, there was lames Brown Potter, one of the founders of Tuxedo Park, who was elected to membership in the Tuxedo Club at the organizational meeting held at Delmonico’s, in New York City in November 1885. According to the archives, Mr. Potter was introduced to the idea of the Dinner Jacket by the Prince of Wales, who later became Edward VII.

1886

The first Autumn Ball, held at the Tuxedo Club in October 1886, is marked as the official first appearance of the Dinner Jacket. Then, it is said Griswold Lorillard and his friends started the people attending the ball by wearing a scarlet satin lapelled Dinner Jacket – tailless while all others were attired in the traditional white –tie and tails. And thus was born the elegant garment forever more to be known as the “Tuxedo” – adapted by people rich and poor as a symbol of celebration. Good Times and Special Occasions; designated by the motion picture industry as its symbol for the high society, class and elegance, and even a symbol for hope for better days during the Depression Days of the Thirties, defined by the tastemakers and standard bearers as the appropriate garb for those events in an individual’s life when only a tradition of elegance
will do.

Tuxedo Styles

There are 6 different tuxedo lengths that are used today:

1.) Tail Coat

The most formal evening design ending abruptly in the front at waist length and stretching roughly to the back of the knee in the rear

2.) Cutaway

The mot formal day design that slowly cuts away from the button to the back of the knee in a slight curve

3.) Waistcoat

A formal coat ending its full length at the waist

4.) Dinner Coat

A traditional length coat that ends at mid thigh

5.) Fashion Length

A more modern style ending in length usually between 1-6” longer than the Dinner Coat

6.) ¾ Length

Very modern style extending in length just below the knees


There are 3 different button styles that are used today

1.) Single Breasted

The most traditional of styles, buttoning in one single line, number of buttons range from 1-7, able to be worn buttoned or unbuttoned

2.) Double Breasted

An older formal style, carrying 2 columns of buttons, ranging from 2-6 buttons, made to be worn buttoned at all times

3.) No Buttons

Traditionally this style is only on tailcoats, and waist coats, but can sometimes appear in more
modern styles.

There are 4 basic lapel styles that all coats fit into:

Notch Lapel



Peak Lapel



Shawl Lapel



The trick lapel covers any lapel style that cannot somehow fit into the notch, peak, or shawl styles (ex. Mandarin collar)

Wedding Formalwear Guide
Contemporary (More modern)

	Very Formal Evening	Semi-Formal Evening	Very Formal Daytime	Formal Evening	Second and Later Weddings
Groom	Black full dress (tailcoat), white or other color tailcoat acceptable. Shirt coordinates with tailcoat, tie and vest match tailcoat in color, except if wearing black full dress wear white wing collar pique shirt with white pique vest and bow. Shoes: Patent.	Tuxedo or tailcoat, in range of colors – dark for fall and winter, pastels for spring and summer, white for any time of year. Shirt white or coordinate with tuxedo in color; may be pleated or flat. Shoes: Patent.	Updated cutaway. Usually grey, with striped or matching trousers, white shirt striped tie or ascot; or tuxedo in conservative colors, dark for winter or all grey cutaway outfit with wing or fold collar formal shirt and striped grey ascot or four-in-hand tie.	Black tuxedo, white pleated formal shirt, bow tie, vest or cummerbund to match tuxedo lapels. White dinner jacket with formal dinner jacket with formal trousers for summer or tropical climate.	Formalwear appropriate to time of year, time of day, and style of the bride and her attendants.
Ushers and Junior Groomsmen	Similar to groom in style. Most formal: identical tailcoat suits.	Formalwear similar to groom in style, however, if groom chooses a tailcoat ushers can wear similar color tuxedos. Shirts white or coordinate with tuxedos in color, ties and vests match tuxedos.	Similar to groom in style, or can wear matching stroller coats with striped or matching trousers. Usually same color as groom.	Similar to groom, coordinated in color.	Similar to groom, coordinated in color.
Fathers	Same as groom or same as ushers, or in classic tuxedo.	Similar to ushers, or in classic black tuxedo.	Same as groom or same as ushers, or in classic tuxedo.	Either similar to the male attendants or formalwear of own choice.	Same as groom or same as ushers.
Guests	Formalwear similar to groom. For an elegant mood specify “Black Tie” on invitation; guests will wear black tuxedos.	Formal wear optional. For an elegant mood, specify “Black Tie” on invitation.	Formalwear optional.	Formal wear optional.	Similar to groom. Specify on invitations if you want your guests to dress formally.
Ring Bearer	Same as groom or groomsmen	Same as groom or groomsmen	Same as groom or groomsmen	Same as groom or groomsmen	Same as groom or groomsmen

Traditional (Classic)

	Very Formal Evening	Formal Evening	Very Formal Daytime	Semi-Formal Daytime
Groom	Black full dress (tailcoat) with white wing collar pique formal shirt, white pique vest and bow. Shoes: Patent. May ear sprig from the bride’s bouquet as boutonniere.	Black tuxedo, white pleated formal shirt, bow tie, vest of cummerbund to match tuxedo lapels. White dinner jacket with formal trousers for summer or tropical climate.	Cutaway coat, grey striped trousers, grey vest, ascot, or striped four-in-hand tie. Optional top hat, spats, grey gloves. Shoes: Patent.	Grey stroller, with striped trousers, pearl grey vest, four-in-hand tie with white pleated formal shirt. Optional: homburg gloves.
Ushers and Junior Groomsmen	Identical to groom, with different boutonniere.	Same as groom, perhaps with different boutonniere.	Similar to groom in style, with possible variation in tie or shirt.	Identical to groom, perhaps with different boutonniere.
Fathers	Identical to groom, with different boutonniere.	Same as ushers.	Same as groom or same as ushers.	Same as groom or same as ushers.
Guests	May wear tuxedos, or if you specify “White Tie” on invitations guest should wear full dress identical to groom.	Should be formally dressed. Specify “Black Tie” on invitations.	You may suggest “Traditional Morning Attire” on invitations, if you would like your guests to be formally dressed. They would then choose formalwear similar to the groom’s.	Formalwear optional.
Ring Bearer	Identical to groom/groomsmen.	Identical to groom/groomsmen.	Identical to groom/groomsmen.	Identical to groom/groomsmen.

Etiquette

In this day and age not much about tuxedo etiquette is known or followed. Here are some tuxedo etiquette facts to help you:

Type of event: White tie (Most Formal)

Black Tailcoat & Pants
White Shirt, Open-back vest (or cummerbund), and bow tie
Black Formal shoes
White Gloves

Black Tie (Very Formal)

Black (or white) Tuxedo Coat & Black Pants
White Shirt
Black Cummerbund (or vest) and Bow Tie
Formal Shoes

Black Tie Optional (Preferred Formal)

Black (or white) Tuxedo (or suit) Coat & Black Pants
White Shirt
Any Accessories

Time of Event:

After 5pm - Same as White Tie

2pm-5pm - Same as Black Tie

Before 2pm -

Black or Grey Cutaway Coat
Stripped or Black Pants
White Shirt
Black or Grey Open-back Vest
Ascot

Brides Train Length:

Cathedral Length (8ft or longer) - Same as White Tie

Chappel Length (4ft-8ft) - Same as Black Tie

Sweep Length (under 4 ft) - Same as Black Tie Optional

Event Location:

Cathedral - Same as White Tie

Chappel or Church - Same as Black Tie

Outside or Dining hall or other - Same as Black Tie Optional

# of Guests:

300+ Same as White Tie

50-300 Same as Black Tie

1-50 Same as Black Tie Optional

Definitions

Ascot (as-kot) - A cravat with wide square ends; secured with an ornamental pin.
Besom (be’-zum) - Narrow welted edging on coat body above pocket lip.
Black Tie Invited - An event where a tuxedo or a dinner jacket may be worn but is not required. If not a tuxedo, proper Dressy Attire - coat and tie is necessary.
Black Tie Required - An event where a tuxedo or dinner jacket is required. Don’t even think about attending without one.
Boutonniere (boo’-tah-neer’) - A flower or small bunch of flowers worn in a button hole. From Old French, buttonhole.
Bow Tie - Standard formal attire. Wide array of fabrics, colors and patterns. Black is always a preferred choice. Available usually pre-tied with a neck band to wear on a wing-collar or dress-collar shirt. Be bold; buy black a silk tie that you tie yourself. Very James Bond-like.
Braces - The English term for suspenders. Usually of the button-on variety but also available as clip-on.
Button Cover - Decorative gold or silver ornamentation that locks over the top button of a mandarin collar shirt. Popular in the 90s.
Cane - A straight black cane with white tips on both ends. Traditionally carried when wearing “white tie and tails”. Usually accompanied by white gloves and top hat.
Continental Vest (aka waistcoat) - A backless vest designed to accommodate varied sizes of men. Available in a wide array of colors and fabric patterns. With the exception of boys sizes and extra-large sizes, vest comes as a ‘one size fits all.’ Includes adjustable strapping at the back of the neck for length and across the lower back to adjust the waist.
Cuff Links - Traditional formal attire. Usually available in gold, silver, silver plate, gold plate, and nickel-plate. Normally coordinated with four shirt studs worn on the front placket of the shirt in lieu of buttons.
Cummerbund (kum’-er’bund’) - A broad sash, especially one that is pleated lengthwise and worn as an article of the formal dress, as with a dinner jacket. Worn so the open sides of the pleats are up (as if to hold opera tickets).
Cutaway (aka morning coat) - Classic daytime formal attire that used to be worn only for events prior to noon. Now acceptable up until mid-afternoon, but never for evenings. A charcoal grey or black coat with a long coachman back. The front of the coat “cuts away” from the button down. Worn with a dove grey or black vest, stripped or pin-dot ascot, wing collar shirt, and either striped or nail head pants. Black formal shoes or dress calfskin shoes are a must.
Dinner Jacket - Traditionally, for summer, white, off-white or Sahara tan. Panama weave, single or double breasted, self faced shawl collar dinner jacket with black formal trousers. Worn with a white pleated wing-collar or spread-collar shirt.
Drop - The number of inches smaller the trouser waist of a suit is than the coat. A size 40 regular suit, for example, usually has 6 inch trouser drop… a 34 inch waist.
Fedora (fi-dôr’-uh) - A soft left hat with a fairly low crown creased lengthwise and a brim that can be turned up or down.
Four-in-Hand - The simplest of neckwear knots to tie. Name comes from a coach being drawn by four horses in two teams, driven in tandem by a single person. Young blades took up the sport, organized into clubs and adopted the professional coachman’s tie as a mark of distinction. A four-in-hand is a small knot for wear with a narrow spread collar.
Fullback Vest (aka waistcoat) - Similar to a continental vest but with a full satin back like on a traditional three-piece suit. Usually found with an adjustable strap across the lower back to cinch-in any excess fabric. Available in as many as eight sizes.
Gorge - The seam on a coat where collar meets lapel.
Hacking Pocket - A Slanted flap pocket on a coat. Rarely found in formal wear.
Handkerchief (aka pocket square) - A silk or satin fabric square folded in a variety of manners and placed in the outer breast pocket of a tuxedo. Does not have to match the vest but should complement the colors in the tie or the vest.
Herringbone - Classic zigzag effect resembling the backbone of a herring. Achieved by altering the direction of twill.
Iridescent - Contrasting warp and filling yarns giving a two-color effect.
Jacquard - An intricate, variegated, self-pattern weave with clear finish. Named for the Frenchman who invented the loom in the early 19th century.
Lapel (lah’-pel) - The part of a coat that is turned back; the fold of the front of a coat that is usually a continuation of the collar.
Low Rise - The difference between inseam and outseam of trousers. (Normal rise for size 32 regular, for example, is 10 7/8” (10 1/8” for 32 short and 11 1/8 for 32 long. Rise increases 1/8” for each increase in waist size.)
Notched (Notch) Lapel - Type of lapel on which the top line slants down in line with the
collar seam.
Paisley - A fabric woven or printed with colorful curved (amoeba-like) abstract figures.
Peaked (Peak) Lapel - Type of lapel on which the top line slant up from the horizontal.
Pima - Fine grade, long bred staple crossbreed of Sea Island and Egyptian cotton, developed in Pima County, Arizona.
Ply - One of the strands in a yarn, 2-ply would indicate that two strands have been twisted together to make one yarn.
Pump - Type of low-cut, slip-on shoe for formal evening wear. Does not have laces or straps. Usually has an ornamental grosgrain ribbon bow in front. Made of patent leather or dull calf.
Shawl Collar - An un-notched lapel with not gorge.
Tartan - A plaid textile design of stripes of varying width and color against a solid ground, patterned to designate a clan.
Twill - A textile weave in which filling yarns pass over one and under two or more warp yarns producing a diagonal rib.
Twist - A yarn formed by twisting two or more strands together. Different colored yarns are often used for unusual color effect.
Under basting - The temporary sewing together of two pieces of fabric to assure perfect pattern matches. Threads are removed at final pressing.
Under pressing - Pressing on the reverse side of the fabric to mold it so it will retain its shape.
Vent - Slit a center or sides on the bottom of the back of a jacket or coat.
Welt - A raised double edge, strip, insert, or seam for ornament or reinforcement.
Windsor - The largest of the three neckwear knot styles. Worn with wide spread collar shirts. (Half-Windsor is worn with medium spread collar).
Worsted - A smooth, compact yarn form long wool fibers, used for smooth, firm,
compact fabrics.